Tag: Kanazawa

Tokyo to Kyoto via Northern Japan: The new bullet train stations (with Flags!)

On By jrhorseIn Jose's Japan Tips11 Comments

It has been a month since the new extension of the bullet train opened from Nagano to the northern coast cities of Toyama and Kanazawa. This means that bullet trains now run from Tokyo directly to these cities and points in between, opening up a new world of possibilities for tourism. If you have a Japan Rail Pass, you will be covered for almost* any of the new bullet train services. Here’s a rundown of the new line and some suggestions for places to visit and itineraries.

The Hokuriku Shinkansen was known as the Nagano Shinkansen when its initial segment opened in October 1997, ahead of the 1998 Nagano Winter Olympics. The new 228 km (141.7 mile) segment opened on March 13, 2015. You can read more about the Hokuriku Shinkansen service classifications by reading my blog post from last October.

Some of the stops along the route:

Flag_of_Iiyama,_Nagano

Iiyama – Located in the northernmost part of Nagano prefecture, Iiyama gets some of the heaviest snowfall in the country. The immediate area east of Iiyama station is clustered with various Buddhist temples, which is why some call it “Little Kyoto.” Generally, Hakutaka services from Tokyo run to Iiyama every 1-2 hours. Information: Shinshu-Iiyama Tourism Bureau

Flag_of_Joetsu,_NiigataJoetsumyoko – This is an interchange station with the Echigo Railway, a private (so-called “third sector”) rail line that JR used to operate trains on until the opening of the bullet train. There is not much to speak of around here, but it should be noted that if you are coming from Kanazawa or Toyama and heading to the coastal city of Niigata, there are a few trains that operate daily between Joetsumyoko and Niigata that are meant to connect with the shinkansen services. This service is called the Shirayuki. The Shirayuki runs to Naoetsu from which it continues to Niigata on JR tracks along the Sea of Japan. Since the first few kilometers are on the Echigo Railway, you will have to pay a 450 yen supplement if you are using a Japan Rail Pass. If you are going from Tokyo to Niigata, use the direct Joetsu Shinkansen instead.

Flag_of_Itoigawa,_NiigataItoigawa – This is the first bullet train stop on the coast as you come north from Tokyo. Itoigawa was named as Japan’s first “Geopark” by the UNESCO-funded Global Geoparks Network, and they proudly boast 24 different areas that you can visit in the region with various mixes of geology, culture and history. Most, but not all, Hakutaka services stop here. More information about the Geoparks can be found at their official website, and they have a wealth of information in English, including updates on which areas are open and closed.

The local JR Oito Line snakes down from Itoigawa towards the south, and you COULD take the scenic, local route all the way down to the castle city of Matsumoto cheaply in 3-4 hours, weather permitting. Nowadays, though, you can do it in about 90 minutes taking the bullet train to Nagano then the Shinano limited express service. Another stop on the Oito Line is Shinano-omachi – a local bus from here will take you to the start of the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route, which is open for transit from spring until autumn.

Flag_of_Kurobe,_ToyamaKurobe-Unazuki Onsen – This station is the gateway to one of the most popular hot springs in the area, Unazuki Onsen. To get there, walk to nearby Shin Kurobe Station on the Toyama Chiho Railway (not covered by the Japan Rail Pass) and go to the Unazuki Onsen stop. One of the attractions of Unazuki Onsen is the Kurobe Gorge Railway. Originally built for workers building Kurobe Dam, it operates passenger sightseeing trains from late spring until autumn threading through some stunning mountain scenery.

Flag_of_Toyama,_ToyamaToyama – Our first major stop on the newly-opened bullet train route. The next time I visit Japan and I am able to take the new bullet train line out here, I want FISH… and that’s the main attraction. Toyama is referred to as “Nature’s Fish Tank” because nearby Toyama bay is extremely deep. Yellowtail sushi and sashimi slices from Toyama are said to be among the best in the country.

Many sushi shops in the area participate in the Toyamawan Sushi program, which offers a set course of 10 pieces of freshly-caught sushi for between 2,000 and 3,500 yen. There is also a unique bento box from Toyama that uses fatty trout, called Masunosushi. It is pressed trout over rice, wrapped in bamboo leaves and packed in a wooden box. I was given a used box from a friend in Japan as a gift to take home in my 2004 trip, and even when empty the lovely trout smell lingered for weeks. I would breathe it a few times a day.

ANYWAY, I want to try this box for real on my next visit 🙂

The aforementioned Toyama Chiho Railway terminates here, at the nearby Dentetsu-Toyama Station. This, plus a series of tram lines, are great ways to get around Toyama and visit the cultural areas. Taking the Toyama Chiho Railway to Tateyama will bring you to the opposite end of the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route mentioned earlier. More information: Toyama Prefectural Tourism Association

Flag_of_Takaoka_ToyamaShin-Takaoka – This next city has more of a traditional flair. The new station is on the south side of town as opposed to the regular Takaoka station, though the two stations are connected with a brief trip on the JR Johanna line. On the north side of town is Kanaya-machi, a street filled with lattice houses from when iron and copper makers set up shop in the 1600s. A short distance from the south of Takaoka station, and from around the same time period as Kanaya-machi, is Zuiryuji Temple. North of Takaoka and directly on the coast is where weekly ferry services to Vladivostok, Russia operate from.

Flag_of_Kanazawa,_IshikawaKanazawa – The terminating station on the Hokuriku Shinkansen (for now) is a marvel to behold on the outside, with a new main entrance resembling a shinto torii gate. It is a popular city, and the primary reason is Kenroku-en, a large Japanese garden that is regarded as one of the three best in the country. There are also various museums and shopping districts in the area. Kanazawa and Toyama are good starting points for trips to Takayama, and the nearby UNESCO World Heritage site of Shirakawa. More information: Kanazawa City Tourism Association

Of course, Stefan and the folks over at japan-guide.com have a more comprehensive breakdown of what you can find in these cities. They also revamped their website, so be sure to check them out.

After Kanazawa? You can ride the JR Thunderbird limited express to south and west, passing Fukui and skirting Lake Biwa until you reach Kyoto and Osaka. The Shirasagi limited express will bring you to Maibara and Nagoya. If you have already traveled by direct bullet train between Tokyo and Kansai, or you just want something more from your first trip, a little detour through Toyama and Kanazawa (or any of the other places) is a different and potentially rewarding experience.

New E7 Series Shinkansen in service. Photo by Tokyo Sakura, CC by 2.0
New E7 Series Shinkansen in service. Photo by Tokyo Sakura, CC by 2.0

For example, you could opt to travel from Tokyo to Kanazawa, spend the day there, head to Kyoto in the evening, and then return to Tokyo by direct bullet train. Or you could spend a night at any of these stations if you want to pace yourself a bit… in this way, for example, you could try visiting Kanazawa’s Kenroku-en in the early morning before the tour groups arrive. Whether or not you visit any attractions, you can potentially save some money on accommodations compared to big cities like Tokyo and Kyoto by stopping over at one of these cities. Remember that the Japan Rail Pass will cover pretty much everything for your travels, except for Nozomi trains and for any service with the GranClass premium cabin.

As a general rule, Tokyo to Kanazawa is 2 1/2 hours on the fastest shinkansen service, and Tokyo to Toyama is 2 hours. Kanazawa to Kyoto by Thunderbird limited express service is around 2 hours 15 minutes, with Osaka a further 30 minutes down the line.

I hope I have given you a few ideas. Have fun exploring the new train route and unlocking all of the new secrets along it!

Note: All flags in this article are taken from Wikimedia Commons. Since there is no original ownership they are in the public domain. As per usual, all advice is given pursuant to the Japan Tips DISCLAIMER.

The To-Do List for my next Japan trip

On By jrhorseIn Jose's Japan Tips2 Comments

I figure I would share with you some things that I have not done in Japan in my three trips there so far (2004, 2008, 2013) and what I would like to do on my next journey, whenever it happens. I hate to admit it but the way the yen is going, THIS year would probably have been better than LAST year for a trip 🙂

I don’t think that my wife Jordan and I will be returning to Japan in the very near future… maybe sometime next year we will re-evaluate. I am setting the year 2019 (when I turn 38) as the “due date” target, though of course I’d like to go much sooner than that. Why 2019? It is quite possible that we will get to watch some international rugby (Japan will be hosting the Rugby World Cup that year).

So in order of preference:

1) VISIT A RYOKAN

You will probably all be stunned at this, but this is the truth. I have NEVER been to a Ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) in my three trips. I’ve traveled at a pretty quick pace, which is one of the reasons why this never happened. I am assured by some friends, however, that an attempt WILL be made on our next visit to go to one.

2) GO TO TOKYO SKY TREE

Our plans to visit Tokyo Sky Tree in September 2013 were scuttled by long waits to purchase tickets and go up. As we had other plans for the day, we had to move forward. I would have to say that this is my “pet peeve” from the trip. They don’t make it easy for foreigners to purchase tickets to the Sky Tree (at least, that was the case for us). The Sky Tree is so popular, thus the large crowds and long waits. You can make advance reservations for a time slot on the Internet, but only in Japanese, and with a Japanese credit card. If I am unsuccessful next time, I might just head on over to the Sunshine Building in Ikebukuro, which a few of my friends recently visited with rave reviews.
Otherwise, until they offer English bookings the only real way for a foreigner to visit is to:
– Ask a friend living in Japan to purchase tickets for them and invite them along to go up,
– Purchase from a tour agency as a prepaid voucher or as part of a tour
– Book a hotel that has a plan including admission to Tokyo Sky Tree, or
– Just plan to spend a full day at Tokyo Sky Tree, budgeting time of arrival, getting a set time to return, purchasing tickets, returning again, and going up

3) VISIT HOKKAIDO OR KYUSHU (probably one or the other on a single trip)

These are the two prefectures that I have not visited yet, as I made a trip to Shikoku in 2008. While there I saw most of the shrine maiden’s dance at Kompira Shrine that started a three-day festival. Right now I think the lean is toward Hokkaido. It’ll become a little easier in 2016 when the bullet train opens into the southern part of Hokkaido, but many of the main cities in Kyushu are now served by the bullet train line that has been linked with the mainland since 2011.

4) CONSIDER A DETOUR TO KANAZAWA

The newest bullet train line to Kanazawa will open up next year (March 2015), which will make it easier to visit a city that has an impressive new train station and the garden known as Kenroku-en, considered one of the best in Japan.

5) TRANSITING THE TOKAIDO ROAD (or some other ‘golden route’)

One of the many “side projects” I have created is to trace the old Tokaido Road and determine the best way to travel it by train. If we had a few days to stop at a few cities along the way, it would be a great way to experience more of Japan. Actually, I might have written a post about it…. ah yes, five years ago (which means it might need updating soon… :P)

6) TAKE A BUS?

Another way we could possibly experience more of Japan is to take a long bus ride in between cities. Buses have to make a few rest stops, and I have recently read about how Japanese expressway rest stops (known as “Service Areas” or the smaller “Parking Areas”) are becoming a big hit for the variety of food and souvenir options offered. Then again, major train stations will all offer similar fare 🙂

What is on YOUR to-do list for your next trip to Japan?

Japan Railway Improvements Coming in March 2015

On By jrhorseIn Jose's Japan Tips1 Comment

It’s sometimes hard to imagine that in a small, densely-populated country like Japan, they somehow find the room to carry out large transit improvement projects. Two major projects will be opening in March of 2015, that will make transit around Japan much easier – both for the locals and for the tourists.

New E7 Series Shinkansen in service. Photo by Tokyo Sakura, CC by 2.0
New E7 Series Shinkansen in service. Photo by Tokyo Sakura, CC by 2.0

New Shinkansen Line Opens between Nagano and Kanazawa

On Saturday, March 14, 2015 – the Saturday in March selected next year for all Japan Railway lines to carry out an across-the-board revision of their train timetables – Japan’s flagship bullet train system, or Shinkansen, branches out with the opening of a new extension between Nagano and Kanazawa. The current Nagano Shinkansen, operating between Tokyo and Nagano, will thus extend itself and be known as the Hokuriku Shinkansen. It is the first opening of a bullet train line since 2011, when the Kyushu Shinkansen link between Fukuoka and Yatsushiro became operational.

The bullet train opening will bring with it seven new stations in Nagano, Niigata, Toyama and Ishikawa prefectures.  The terminal city, Kanazawa, has preserved much of its heritage as the city was spared from World War II allied bombings. Its main attractions are Kenroku-en Garden, known as one of the Best Three Gardens in all of Japan, and Kanazawa Castle Park. Many other sites to visit in Kanazawa can be found on the official Kanazawa Tourism website.

The bullet train will also open in Toyama, a beautiful city whose prefecture is part of the Japanese Northern Alps. The new bullet train line will make the city a more important transfer point to the city of Takayama and the world heritage site of Shirakawa-go. Another station of interest to to tourists will be Kurobe-Unazukionsen. The station will connect to the private Toyama Chiho Railway for Unazuki Onsen, a small hot spring town. This town, however, is also the start of the Kurobe Gorge Railway, which winds its way around the mountains and the Kurobe Gorge, one of the deepest gorges in all of Japan, where the views of nature are stunning. It is only operational from May until November.

Currently, if you are traveling from Tokyo to Kanazawa, you have two options: Ride the Tokaido Shinkansen “Hikari” service to Maibara and change to the “Shirasagi” train for Kanazawa, or the Joetsu Shinkansen to Echigo-Yuzawa and change to the Hakutaka train. Both of these options take approximately 4 to 4 1/2 hours. However, the new bullet train on the Hokuriku Shinkansen will link Tokyo to Kanazawa in only 2 hours, 28 minutes on the fastest service! Tokyo to Toyama will only be two hours, compared to about 3 hours 20 minutes currently.

If you have the Japan Rail Pass, they have not made an official announcement about validity but I would presume that it would be valid for all trains on the new Hokuriku Shinkansen route. The route will have new trains with GranClass, a premium first class experience that is not fully covered by the Rail Pass (to experience GranClass you have to pay an additional fare, as the pass will just cover the basic fare).

And now for the train name lesson – there will be FOUR different kinds of trains operating on the route. These are:

Kagayaki (かがやき) – This is the fastest service that will make the fewest stops, primarily Tokyo, Omiya, Nagano and Toyama. Selected trains will also stop at Ueno, north of Tokyo station.
Hakutaka (はくたか) – This service will typically serve Tokyo, Ueno and Omiya then run express to Nagano. After Nagano it will make all local stops to Kanazawa. Selected trains will also make stops between Takasaki and Nagano.
Asama (あさま) – This service currently operates on the Nagano shinkansen route from Tokyo to Nagano, and will continue to operate between these two cities only making a mix of local and express stops.
Tsurugi (つるぎ) – This will be the new shinkansen shuttle service that runs throughout the day linking the cities of Toyama and Kanazawa only.

Note that when the Hokuriku Shinkansen opens, several JR lines will be changed over to new private railways, which has been a standard practice over the years. This includes the stretch between Kanazawa and Toyama. Limited Express trains from cities such as Osaka, Kyoto, Maibara and Nagoya will no longer operate between Kanazawa and Toyama, and so passengers (including Rail Pass holders) continuing to Toyama will have to change to the bullet train – primarily the Tsurugi, or whatever is available.

Also, since a few overnight trains from the Kansai region to Hokkaido will now run over private railways, Rail Pass holders will have to pay supplements for using non-JR track if using trains on these lines. Though in a few years, when the bullet train line from Tokyo is extended into Hokkaido, these overnight trains will probably cease to exist.

JR East E233-3000 train that will typically be seen on the new Ueno-Tokyo Line. Photo by Tennen-Gas, CC BY-SA 3.0
JR East E233-3000 train that will typically be seen on the new Ueno-Tokyo Line. Photo by Tennen-Gas, CC BY-SA 3.0

Ueno-Tokyo Through Line Opens

The second major development that is expected to dramatically improve transit within Tokyo is the opening of the Ueno-Tokyo Line. This line will connect local JR trains running from the northern and eastern parts of Tokyo to the Tokaido Main Line that runs south to Yokohama.

Why is this so significant? Many travelers who are traveling over these routes currently have to get off at Ueno, change to a loop line train like the Yamanote Line that goes to Tokyo, then change again to the Tokaido Line. This poses a capacity problem between Tokyo and Ueno, especially during rush hours. The opening of this line will mean no more transfers to the Yamanote Line will be necessary, meaning congestion should see a significant reduction. Ueno-Tokyo through trains will shorten travel times for passengers by a few minutes, which is important in a country where time is essential.

Many of the trains from the north and east that run into Tokyo will continue on to Shimbashi and Shinagawa. It looks like many trains will end at Shinagawa, with a few trains continuing on to Yokohama as well.

Those are some of the improvements that are coming to Japan Railways in March of 2015. Usually, all of the changes that will come with the national timetable revision will be announced by the JR rail companies in simultaneous press releases around mid-December.