Happy Thanksgiving to all… since I haven’t written an article in a while, and since it’s one of our major holidays here in the US, I figured I would offer you some insight as to Japan’s major travel holidays. Of course, with Japan being a relatively small country size-wise, there is a dramatic rush of travel during their major holiday periods. This yields the same kind of results that you’d expect to find during holiday travel rushes in the U.S.: congested highways, crowded buses and trains, and long check-in lines at the airport.

Here is a brief list of Japan’s three major holiday periods. During these periods, airlines, hotels and trains tend to be booked out well in advance, and some hotels – especially the traditional ryokan lodging – will increase their rates. If you do decide to visit Japan during one of these three time periods, then you must travel with patience… either book all of your transit ahead of schedule (for example, with a Rail Pass, try to make seat reservations as soon as possible), or consider staying within one major city cluster, such as Tokyo, Kyoto or Osaka, without moving to another location.

Then again, on the other hand, traveling during these periods also carries a sense of charm and pride for the Japanese… and you, if you feel so inclined to make the plunge to make the most of your travel during the Japanese holidays.

The first major holiday period is coming up rather quickly: New Year’s. On New Year’s Day, the Japanese greet the new year – and pray for it – by visiting shinto shrines and buddhist temples throughout the day. There can be notoriously long lines at some shrines and temples – among which include Meiji Shrine in Tokyo. The period from December 31st into January 1st is the only time during the entire year that local trains run all night. Granted, they are not at frequent intervals, but they are frequent enough to carry the Japanese people to their New Year’s engagements. And to cap it all off (or should I say, to begin it), it is believed that you will have good luck if you can stay up to watch the first sunrise of the New Year. A dramatic place to see the first sunrise is Mount Fuji… either on the ground facing Mount Fuji… or in the air. This year Japan Airlines is operating special charter flights from Tokyo for people who wish to see the first sunrise from up in the sky.

The second major holiday period is Golden Week, which is a week or so worth of several Japanese holidays that have been clustered together to form a nice, long vacation. Golden Week occurs from late April into early May.

The final major holiday period is the Obon, the time when people travel to to pay homage and tribute to their ancestors – the spirits of which are believed to pay visits to the Japanese. In most parts of Japan, Obon occurs during August 13-15 and surrounding days. However, some Japanese interpret the solar calendar instead of the lunar calendar, and celebrate Obon from July 13-15 and surrounding days.

New Year’s, Golden Week, and Obon. Three times of the year to avoid, if you want to avoid overcrowding on transit and if you want to avoid paying higher fees for lodging. Then again, if you’re willing to “plunge forward” (a famous Wikitravel phrase) and experience more of the Japanese culture, then do so. Perhaps you’ll be able to appreciate Japan in ways you wouldn’t expect at other times of the year.

This article is taken from a recent Wikipedia write-up… Up until 2008 it was possible to travel overnight by train between Tokyo and Kyoto/Osaka using the “Ginga” express sleeper train. Thanks to the amount of people using bullet trains, buses and planes these days, the number of people using sleeper trains has dwindled to the point that some services (such as the Ginga) have been eliminated. But, there IS still a way.

Instead of taking one train on a straight path, this course utilizes two trains via northern Japan. 

This requires a large sum of money, and consequently, may be of interest to Japan Rail Pass holders. There are two ways to travel between Tokyo and Kyoto/Osaka, and each method requires taking two trains. I will use Kyoto in the following explanations; all of these services listed below continue on to Osaka (about 30 minutes further out).

The first method from Tokyo is to leave from Tokyo Station or Ueno Station on the final Joetsu Shinkansen departure towards Niigata, changing at Nagaoka (長岡) station for the Kitaguni (きたぐに) express train to Kyoto. The Kitaguni has unreserved standard class seating, reserved green car seating, and couchettes; all seating is non-smoking.

If you use the Shinkansen and an unreserved seat on the Kitaguni, the rail pass fully covers the trip, which takes about nine hours in each direction. Ordinary pass holders who wish to upgrade to the green seat on the Kitaguni can pay ¥5150; Green Car pass holders can use the Green Cars at no charge. Using a couchette on the Kitaguni will incur a surcharge, regardless of rail pass type.

As of November 2009, Max Toki (とき) #353 departs Tokyo Station at 21:40 and arrives in Nagaoka at 23:26. This connects to the Kitaguni, leaving Nagaoka at 23:53 and arriving in Kyoto at 6:16. The return Kitaguni leaves Kyoto just past midnight (0:02) and arrives in Nagaoka at 7:14. The bullet train connection is on Toki #304, which leaves Nagaoka at 7:23 and arrives in Tokyo at 9:12.

The second method from Tokyo is to travel from Ueno Station north to Kanazawa using either the Hokuriku (北陸) sleeper train or the Noto (能登) express train. Upon arrival at Kanazawa station in the morning, change to the Thunderbird (サンダーバード) limited express to Kyoto. The Noto express from Ueno is cheaper, with reserved, non-reserved and green car seats available; all seats are non-smoking and one car is designated for female passengers. The more expensive Hokuriku, one of Japan’s few-remaining “Blue Car” sleeper trains, contains couchettes and private rooms with vending machines and an on-board shower that can be used by purchasing a “Shower Card” from the conductor. Once on board the ‘Thunderbird’ train you will be able to purchase food and drinks from the on-board wagon cart.

With the rail pass, this journey is FREE if you take the Noto and Thunderbird. Ordinary Pass holders can upgrade to the more comfortable Green Car on the Noto for ¥5150; Green Car Pass holders can use the Green Cars at no charge. If using the Hokutosei with either version of the pass, then you must pay the Hokutosei limited express and room fare: ¥9100 for a couchette/solo compartment or ¥16200 for a Single Deluxe compartment.

As of November 2009, the Hokutosei leaves Ueno at 23:03, reaching Kanazawa at 6:26, while the Noto leaves Ueno at 23:33 and arrives in Kanazawa at 6:29. Both trains connect to Thunderbird #6, leaving Kanazawa at 7:02 and arriving in Kyoto at 9:11, for a travel time of about 10 hours and 9 1/2 hours, respectively.

On the return trip from Kyoto to Tokyo, Thunderbird #45, leaving Kyoto at 19:54 and arriving in Kanazawa at 22:07, provides quick connections to the Noto (leaving 22:15, arriving Ueno at 6:05) and the Hokutosei (leaving 22:18, arriving Ueno at 6:19) for a travel time of about 10 hours and 10 1/2 hours, respectively.

My suggestion, if you were to use overnight services both ways: From Tokyo, take the Hokuriku or Noto and the Thunderbird. From Kyoto/Osaka, take the Kitaguni and the Joetsu Shinkansen. With both of these courses you can spend more time at your origin before your departure, and you would arrive at your destination just as the morning rush hour is drawing to a close.

Taking an overnight service compared to the bullet train is actually more expensive: while a one-way trip from Tokyo to Osaka on the bullet train costs 14,000 yen, the overnight trips using the model courses listed above start at around 17-18,000 yen each. So depending on your itinerary, taking an overnight train may be of good value when using the rail pass… especially because you can save money by using the train instead of staying at a hotel. Even if you DO decide to use the Hokutosei for the benefits of an on-board shower and some more privacy, and you do have to pay the extra surcharge as a result, you’ll be paying less than what other travelers would pay, since your Rail Pass covers the entire BASIC train fare.

Also keep in mind, however, that if you do choose a more simpler method of travel, the Rail Pass is valid on all BUSES between Tokyo and Kyoto/Osaka.

(These tips are offered pursuant to the DISCLAIMER – click “DISCLAIMER” at the top of the page)

Japan can be a very rewarding experience, whether you are a seasoned traveler or are going for the very first time. But if flying from North America, there is one hurdle that you must overcome before you can enjoy the land of the rising sun.

I’m not talking about the cultural barrier, nor the language barrier… and I’m not (directly) talking about finances.

I’m talking about what you’re going to use to GET there. And for 99.999% of you, that GET is in the form of a pressurized metal tube called an airplane.

In this article I’ll tell you about the two main things when it comes to flying to Japan: paying for it, and surviving it.

You should budget a good deal of money if you are going to pay for the flight up front using cash or a credit card. Even though there are so many flights that run from North America’s major cities to Japan, the cost is typically in the range of $1,000 per person for economy class. There are, however, times when airlines have sales of some sort.

You have heard my motto by now… consider all of the options available before making a decision that is right for you. When it comes to airline flights, take these thoughts into consideration based on my experience.

– If you are flying from Oshkosh, Wisconsin or some other small city, you will likely have to fly into a major airport to connect to your international flight to Japan. This will likely increase the cost of flying, so it’s important to bear this in mind.

– You can go to FareCompare, a website that allows you to plug in your travel cities and travel dates, and then will show you the cheapest fares. On my research of fares to Tokyo last year, I was able to find a specific part of the website that breaks down the fares into the part of the fare that pertains to the actual flight, plus a separate column for taxes and surcharges.

– You can also search the websites of major airlines on a daily basis until you find a fare that is discounted. Searches on Orbitz and Travelocity will also help.

– You may wish to consider purchasing deeply discounted tickets that are offered by travel companies such as JTB. These tickets can be on major airlines such as All Nippon, Japan Airlines, United, etc., or you may elect to purchase a more-discounted fare where you do not know the name of the airline that you will be traveling until the purchase is made (sort of like Priceline in a way). JTB fares also do not include taxes… again you will find this out when the ticket purchase is made. There is also the possibility that you may have to change planes somewhere, even if you live in/near a major city that offers flights to Japan. For example if you purchase a discounted Delta ticket for travel from New York to Tokyo, you may have to fly to another city such as Atlanta, Detroit or Los Angeles to connect to the Japan-bound flight, even though Delta operates a daily nonstop service from New York to Tokyo.

JTB may also offer a combination package of airfare and hotel accomodation for a certain period of time. For example, at the time I write this they have what appears to be a very nice deal: $899+tax for a 4-night stay in Tokyo that includes round-trip airfare from New York (Newark Liberty) on Continental Airlines’ nonstop service, hotel accomodations and a half-day sightseeing tour.

– Finally, you can do what I did once, and what I plan to do on my next trip to Japan: Use my Frequent Flier miles. I belong to a frequent flier program of a major US airline, and I can earn miles on my account several ways, such as flying on the airline, making purchases on my credit card, and taking advantage of bonus offers that my airline or credit card offers, that will allow me to earn additional mileage. Why not sign up for a frequent flier program with an airline that flies to Japan, obtain a credit card, and start spending to get miles? It’ll take some time depending on how much you spend of course. But think about it… using your credit card to pay for necessities in life, and whatever else you can afford… and soon enough you’ll have enough miles to fly anywhere, Japan included, for FREE! I’m willing to disclose this… through my frequent flier program, I currently have  just enough miles for TWO round-trips to Japan in economy class, or ONE round-trip in first class!

Well now, some way or another, you have that coveted ticket that will serve as your entrance to Japan… oops, let me correct myself. It serves as your entrance to your plane, and your seat 😦

No matter where you fly from in North America, your nonstop flight to Japan will be in the range of 12 to 14 hours in duration – on the higher end of this from the east coast – because planes have to pretty much fly the same path… on a route that passes over Alaska to the other side of the world. So, what exactly will you do during that amount of time?

Well let’s see… if I were you, I would look carefully to select a flight that has in-flight entertainment at your seat. Most airlines offer this, and many airlines offer this service at no additional cost for flights to Japan… yes, you get a headset, you get your own selection of television programs, and you can watch feature-length movies, all for free.

Health is important while in the pressurized atmosphere for a long time. Not taking care of your body during the flight may yield an uncomfortable – or unfavorable – result.

It is important to bring a bottle of water with you on your flight so that you can stay hydrated. In this day and age you’ll have to do this after the security checkpoints. Drink a reasonable amount – not too much – every so often.

It’s also important to stretch your body on a regular basis. I find this easier to do by pacing my bathroom breaks and then spending my “post-bathroom” time, if you want to call it that, stretching my body out in an open area near the galley.

What I normally do is try not to drink too much so that I have to go to the bathroom often… if you fall into this category, by the way, you’ll want to sit in an aisle seat. Flights to and from Japan usually offer three meals: One full meal, one light meal, one full meal. These are spaced out throughout the flight. What I do, as soon as I finish my meal, and hand the garbage to the flight attendants, is to head straight to the bathroom. Once I’ve left the bathroom I spend some time stretching my body out… stretch and hold my elbows and knees, for example… before I return to my seat. I then repeat this process two more times during the flight, after each of the other meals. There are some nice websites that you can google that show you some stretches to do while on the plane, either standing or within the confines of your seat.

My mother’s advice before travel, be it on a short 30-minute flight or a long 14-hour marathon trip to Japan… take a pill of Aspirin before your flight. This will thin the blood to help prevent/limit clots from occurring during the flight. Any clot that forms in your body and gets loose can potentially be deadly – and the chances of clots forming in your body increase as your body adapts to the environment of the airplane. Of course stretching your body out also helps reduce your risk.

I hope this is useful as you consider your flying options to Japan. A couple of more things I’d like to share… first, exactly where should you sit on the plane? Well, window or aisle is completely up to your preference, but as far as a ROW goes, I have a certain preference. Of course if you purchase a deeply-discounted air ticket, chances are you are assigned a seat automatically, or at the airport, with no provision to select your own seat. But if you have the option, I would choose a seat that is two to three rows in front of, or behind, the restroom. The simple reason is that it’s much easier to access the restroom if you need to use it. If the airline’s website does not have seat maps of the plane you will be using then you can use a website like Seat Guru.

Lastly, if you were ever curious as to what the airline pilots do on long flights to Japan, you may want to purchase an interesting DVD to get an indication. Granted, if you are not into the intricate operations of airplanes then this may not be for you… but if you’re curious, then go to the World Air Routes website and check out their brand new in-cockpit video for the Air Canada 777, which includes video of Air Canada’s round trip service from Toronto, Ontario to Tokyo Narita Airport.

ATTENTION: This post has been deprecated by a newer article. Please read the newer version here.

I’m pleased today to repost on my blog a travel itinerary for a full day in Tokyo that I originally wrote on the open-source WikiTravel and iGuide websites. This itinerary retraces the exact steps that I took during my first full day in Tokyo on June 2, 2004, and I believe this is a wonderful itinerary that allows new visitors to explore Tokyo’s past and present, and draw comparisons as a result. You may view the WikiTravel article with photos here.

CLASSIC TOKYO, MODERN TOKYO

This itinerary is intended as a general introductory tour into what Tokyo is all about.

Understand
The following tour starts and ends at Tokyo Station, contrasting the Tokyo of old with the Tokyo of new. In this tour you will visit the following major destinations:

Tokyo Station
Imperial Palace and the East Gardens in Chiyoda
Sensōji Temple in Asakusa
Odaiba
Shinjuku

Prepare
You will need to get a Suica or PASMO fare card worth at least ¥3000 to be safe. Either type of fare card can be obtained at the nearest train station.

If you have a Japan Rail Pass when entering the country, you can just walk through the barriers when entering and exiting the JR system and flash your pass to the guard. However, you should purchase a ¥3000 fare card in any case.

Go
You can do this itinerary on any day except Mondays, Fridays and major holidays, when the East Gardens are closed.

Begin: Tokyo Station (東京)

Time yourself to arrive at Tokyo station at around 10:00 AM. If you wish, arrive earlier to experience the end of the morning rush hour. Exit towards the Marunouchi North Exit (丸の内北口), where if you are lucky, you will see one of the many special exhibitions that are constantly put on display.

Exit the station to your left and walk until you are at the center of the exterior of the station. Here is where the first stark contrast between old and new can be seen: On one side you can see brand new skyscrapers and on the other side, the red brick facade of Tokyo Station. You might see construction equipment, too, as developers are currently in the process of restoring the old Tokyo Station building to its original appearance prior to World War II.

Imperial Palace

You will see a very wide street that proceeds straight out from the center of the station; this is Miyuki Dōri. Proceed walking down the right side of the road until you reach the moat, Wadakura-bori. After walking through what is certain to be a lot of vehicular traffic, it is a slow transition into serenity as you pass the moat and come across the Wadakura Fountain Park.

After spending a few moments at the fountains, continue across the final road, Uchibori Dōri, to the Imperial Palace Plaza. Walk around the edge of the plaza, and you will soon find everything rather calm, as the transfer into old Tokyo has been made. Standing at one of the large gravel intersections, look around and see the contrast once more.

Backtrack yourself to where you entered, and turn left, walking north on Uchibori Dōri until you reach the Ōte-mon Gate (大手門), which leads you into the public East Gardens.

Browse through the main path of the gardens, picking up a beverage from a vending machine, purchasing a gift, and if lucky, hearing the screams of the Imperial Guard practicing kendo close by.

Continuing on the main path, you will reach a flower garden, where you should be able to see a large sign pointing you to Hirakawa-mon Gate (平川門), the north exit of the East Gardens.

With your jaunt through the Imperial Palace complete, turn right as you exit Hirakawa-mon and walk a short distance to the entrance to Takebashi station (竹橋) and, using your Suica or PASMO card, take the Tokyo Metro Tōzai Line one stop to Ōtemachi station (大手町).

Follow the underground arcade towards the JR Lines until you reach Tokyo Station. Flash your Japan Rail Pass, or if you don’t have a rail pass, use your Suica or PASMO card. This is a nice opportunity for a quick snack at one of the many food stands before continuing on.

Sensōji Temple

A quick entry to Modern Tokyo can be found as you walk up to platform 4 for the northbound Yamanote Line. Here, board one of the green-colored trains that arrive every 2 to 3 minutes.

The Yamanote Line is the most prominent rail line in Tokyo, with quick service, and a loop that runs around the entire city. All announcements on the Yamanote line are in both Japanese and English, with computer monitors that show information such as connections at the next stop.

Take the Yamanote Line to Ueno (上野), then walk out and down the stairs, where you’ll whip out your Suica or PASMO card once again and board the Tokyo Metro Ginza Line, taking it to the terminal stop of Asakusa (浅草).

Proceed out of Exit 1, 2 or 3, and look for the large Kaminari-mon Gate (雷門), which is your signal to the road that leads to Sensōji Temple. This road, which is Nakamise Dōri, includes a covered arcade of specialty stores and food shops. Pass these initially, and the usual crowds that form around them, and come back to visit a few upon returning.

When you get back to the area around Asakusa station, don’t forget to look across the river for a look at the Golden Turd, also known as the Asahi Beer brewing factory.

Odaiba

Now after a totally classic experience, it’s time to head in a completely opposite direction. Enter Asakusa station and follow the signs for the Toei Asakusa Line, which is another subway line. Take any train to Shimbashi (新橋) and then transfer upstairs to the Yurikamome (ゆりかもめ) light rail line. (You’ll need your Suica or PASMO card for both.)

After skimming past some skyscrapers, you will see the Rainbow Bridge on your left side. Then the train makes a 270-degree right turn and enters the bridge for the crossing into Odaiba, the man-made island that boasts a completely new scene in Tokyo.

One of the main attractions here is the Fuji TV Building. But one of the more interesting ones is the Toyota pavilion, which can be reached by getting off the Yurikamome at the first stop, Odaiba Kaihin-Koen (お台場海浜公園), then taking a nice walk on the bridge across the expressway. Eventually you will come upon the complex, a part of Palette Town, which includes Toyota, as well as a Lawson convenience store. Inside the Toyota pavilion you can test-drive new Toyota vehicles if you have an international drivers license, or simply push a button and have automated elevators and conveyors present a vehicle to you. The other end of the Yurikamome is on the other side of the complex; board it here with your Suica or PASMO card and take it a few stops to Daiba (台場) to access the Fuji building.

The Tokyo Teleport station (東京テレポート) of the Tokyo Waterfront Railway, aka Rinkai Line, is located within the vicinity of the Fuji building.

Traveling to Shinjuku

If you’ve progressed at a steady pace, it should be close to dusk by the time you enter the Rinkai Line. The last stop on the tour is a place which shines with nightlife, Shinjuku.

In the past, getting from Tokyo Teleport to Shinjuku was a bit tricky depending on whether or not you had a Japan Rail Pass. Although Rinkai Line trains continue directly to Shinjuku station, you travel over two separate railways (Tokyo Teleport to Osaki on the Tokyo Waterfront Railway, then Osaki to Shinjuku on the JR Saikyo Line).

Now, it’s very easy and straightforward: If you have a Japan Rail Pass, DO NOT USE IT. Use your Suica or PASMO card for this leg of the trip. The Japan Rail Pass is not accepted for travel over the Tokyo Waterfront Railway, however if you use your fare card there will be no problems.

Have a bite to eat in the station, if you want, or see what kind of eateries you can find, cheap or expensive, in Shinjuku itself!

Shinjuku

Head to the east exit of Shinjuku station to begin in front of the giant television monitor at Studio ALTA, one of Tokyo’s major meeting places. If you are courageous, follow the train tracks north and attempt to plunge into Tokyo’s red-light district of Kabukichō (歌舞伎町)… you’ll see bright signs for it just to the right of the Shinjuku Prince Hotel.

If you’ve had enough, walk south to Kōshu Kaidō (甲州街道) to enjoy the panoramic views of the rest of Shinjuku at ground level overlooking the train tracks, including the large Takashiyama Times Square building.

Returning

Shinjuku is the country’s busiest train hub, but don’t stray in Shinjuku too late, as, like the rest of the country, train services stop at midnight!

To return to Tokyo Station, you can take the JR Chuo Line across, or do the same using the Marunouchi subway line.

If you are returning elsewhere, you can take the JR Yamanote Line, or several subway lines, including the Marunouchi, Toei Shinjuku or Toei Oedo line.

Straying
If you want to stray a bit from the route, take a moment to inhale the world’s largest pedestrian crossing, which can be found at Shibuya station.

http://wikitravel.org/en/Classic_Tokyo,_Modern_Tokyo

(Itinerary offered pursuant to Disclaimer)

So you wanna follow the Tokaido Road, but don’t have a lot of time? Then I hope this suggested course helps you out. Traveling the old Tokaido is something that I’ve been wanting to do for a while now… Hopefully on one of my next trips to Japan I’ll be able to pull it off. If you’re interested, then I’ll give you the lowdown on how you can use the train to successfully navigate through a path that dates back over 400 years.

So what exactly IS the Tokaido Road? The Tokaido was one of five major routes that spread out from Edo (present-day Tokyo) back in Japan’s period of isolationism. Construction began back in 1601 under the control of Tokugawa Ieyasu. The Tokaido, and all of the other routes, were ways for officials and commoners to travel, carry out business and do trade.

The Tokaido Road contained 53 “stations”, or rest areas where lodging, food and entertainment were available. 400 years later, this road would meld into modern society with the construction of roads, conventional trains, and the bullet train. Traveling the Tokaido today will allow you to explore a unique essence… one that can only be discovered along this hallowed path.

Now if you REALLY have the time, as American professor James Baquet did in 2001, you can walk the Tokaido yourself from Tokyo to Kyoto. Baquet did the walk in 35 days, although it is said that back in the day the Japanese took less time to cover that distance. On the other hand, you, the faithful traveller, only have yea number of days worth of vacation in Japan, making a complete walk along the 319-mile path infeasible.

Thankfully, though, there’s the wonderful Japanese train system… punctual and efficient. By train you will have many options, from type of train to duration of trip. You could take the bullet train, but this would destroy the trip for our purposes as the different aspects of Japan will turn into a blur as your train zips along. For us, going “local” is the way to go.

The journey can be as simple as taking the Tokaido Line, which runs close to the route of the old Tokaido between Tokyo and Nagoya, then takes a detour via Maibara on the way to Kyoto. To cover this journey in a single day will require changing trains multiple times. But, despite the fact that people flock to the bullet train, trains on the regular Tokaido Line still operate on a regular schedule and you shouldn’t have to wait long to change trains no matter where you transfer.

As mentioned in a previous article, it is possible to cover the journey in a single day using local trains. This will cost you about 8,000 yen for the one-way trip. Users of the Seishun 18 ticket, at the appropriate time of the year, can see dramatic savings on this journey if traveling together in a group. Here’s an idea for a Monday along the JR Tokaido Line, an eight-train ride assuming a one-hour stop for lunch in Hamamatsu, an important hub in central Japan:

Train 739M: Depart Tokyo 07:02, Arrive Odawara 08:25
Train 741M: Depart Odawara 08:38, Arrive Atami 09:02
Train 1427M: Depart Atami 09:06, Arrive Shizuoka 10:30
Train 757M: Depart Shizuoka 10:43, Arrive Hamamatsu 11:52
LUNCH
Train 951M: Depart Hamamatsu 13:09, Arrive Toyohashi 13:43
Train 2327F: Depart Toyohashi 13:55 (Arrive Nagoya 14:43), Arrive Ogaki 15:16
Train 237F: Depart Ogaki 15:40, Arrive Maibara 16:17
Train 3491M: Depart Maibara 16:19, Arrive Kyoto 17:12 (5:12 PM)
Total Time: 10 hours 10 minutes

You can also opt to be flexible if you wish, and spread this journey out into a few days. How about using the hub stations as starting points for day adventures into Japanese life, culture and attractions?  Why not find a traditional ryokan or two along the way?  If you REALLY wanted as much time on your hands as possible to wander around these areas, then perhaps the bullet train will be to your benefit… KODAMA trains depart twice an hour from all of the Tokaido Shinkansen’s intermediate stations.

As you can tell the possibilities are endless. It all depends on how much time you have and how much you want to absorb yourself.

During my ‘curiosity searching’ I have found that there are other JR lines, as well as private railways, that operate routes closer to the actual Tokaido Road. Here is another sample that I’ve come up with, keeping this in mind. This is a two-day idea with an overnight rest in Nagoya.

The starting point for this trip is the underground Nihombashi station, the closest train stop to the Nihombashi bridge where the Tokaido Road officially begins. The first train departs at the end of the rush hour on the Toei Asakusa Line, and continues on to the Keikyu Line, a private railway.

Toei Asakusa Line and Keikyu Main Line
Train 970H, 970SH: Depart Nihombashi 9:29, Arrive Yokohama 10:06

JR Tokaido Line
Train 775M: Depart Yokohama 10:18, Arrive Atami 11:39
Train 1435M: Depart Atami 11:47, Arrive Numazu 12:07
Train 777M: Depart Numazu 12:19, Arrive Shizuoka 13:12
LUNCH
Train 441M: Depart Shizuoka 14:42, Arrive Hamamatsu 15:32
Train 967M: Depart Hamamatsu 15:46, Arrive Toyohashi 16:19

Meitetsu Main Line (Another private railway)
Train 173 (Rapid Limited Express): Depart Toyohashi 16:32, Arrive Meitetsu Nagoya 17:21

OVERNIGHT in Nagoya

JR Kansai Line
Train 2301M: Depart JR Nagoya 09:03, Arrive Kaneyama 10:03
Train 241D: Depart Kaneyama 10:45, Arrive Tsuge 11:10

JR Kusatsu Line
Train 5353M: Depart Tsuge 11:31, Arrive Kusatsu 12:15

JR Tokaido Line
Train 3455M: Depart Kusatsu 12:24, Arrive Yamashina 12:38

From Yamashina station it’s a short, four-stop ride on the underground Kyoto subway to Sanjo Keihan station (about 10 minutes), a short walk away from the Sanjo-Ohashi bridge… marking the official end of the Tokaido Road.

Fare breakdown:
Toei Asakusa/Keikyu Line, Nihombashi-Yokohama: 510 yen
JR Line, Yokohama-Toyohashi: 4620 yen
Meitetsu Line, Toyohashi-Meitetsu Nagoya: 1430 yen (1080 yen regular fare + 350 yen reserved seat ticket)
JR Line, Nagoya-Yamashina via Tsuge: 2210 yen
Kyoto Subway Tozai Line, Yamashina-Sanjo Keihan: 250 yen
TOTAL: 9020 yen (without the Meitetsu Reserved Seat the cost is 8770 yen)

The disadvantage is that you’ll have to purchase multiple tickets along the way, and the fare is slightly more expensive than just sticking to the Tokaido. On the plus side, you’re closer to the old Tokaido, and there will be more to see, especially on the section between Nagoya and Kusatsu where trains are far and few between.

Once again… many possibilities. It’s all up to you as you plan for your trip. Is a trip along the Tokaido right for you? If not then there are sure to be more “courses” for you to explore in this majestic country!

My sources for the published ideas are Wikipedia, Google Maps, Hyperdia, Ekikara, Tokyo Government and Meitetsu. These ideas are offered for your consideration, subject to the disclaimer (click the ‘disclaimer’ tab at the top). ^_^

If you are interested in visiting the land of the rising sun for the very first time, then I think you need to have at least two weeks to spare. But what if you don’t have that much time?

Here’s an idea for a one-week, seven night journey in Japan that covers all of the important sites. We’ll assume that you will land at Narita Airport, which is the main International airport for Tokyo.

Day 0: You read it correctly… at least if you’re coming from or via North America. I like to call this Day Zero because on this day, well, you’re pretty much a zero in all aspects. All you do is spend the time sitting on the plane. The date will advance to tomorrow as you pass the Earth’s International Date Line. So, for all intents and purposes, this day really should not count. If you can survive the ride inside the pressurized metal tube, you’ll be treated to a reward unlike any other… Japan itself.

Day 1: Touchdown at Narita Airport. You’ll have to go through the disembarkation procedures (outlined in an earlier article). Once you arrive in Tokyo, and have checked into your room, you’ll probably be exhausted. This is the moment to take a shower, change up your clothes a bit, and perhaps take a brief nap. Then there’s the question of dinner… if you feel like your brain is already cooked from the trip then you might want to consider a fast food restaurant that you are familiar with, such as McDonald’s or KFC. But more importantly, take a moment to stop, take a deep breath, and take in your surroundings. Walk around the block for example, or if you feel inclined for a little jaunt, take the train over to Shibuya and marvel at the crowds going through the world’s busiest pedestrian intersection, known as the “Scramble Crossing”. You’ll find the crossing to the east of Shibuya station, and you can get a nice view of it out of a window that is part of the access ramp to the Keio Inokashira train line.

Day 2: Your first full day in Japan. As you arise and have breakfast, I suggest a full day’s worth of walking that I call “Classic Tokyo, Modern Tokyo.” This itinerary, which is available in great detail on the Wikitravel site, more or less retraces the foot steps that I took on my first full day in the country, in June of 2004. Starting from Tokyo Station, walk west to the grounds of the Imperial Palace. (If you’re lucky you may be able to make an advance reservation for a guided tour, which I did not opt for. The tour is in Japanese but English language materials are provided.) Next, take the train to Asakusa and walk through the shopping arcade to Sensoji Temple, the oldest buddhist temple in Tokyo. Return to the Asakusa train station after catching a glimpse of the “Golden Turd”, or what is supposed to be beer froth, from the top of the Asahi Beer building across the river. Head on down to the Yurikamome Light Rail train for a spectacular ride to Tokyo’s entertainment paradise of Odaiba. Add a meal anywhere in between and you’re set for the day. These three locations – Imperial Palace, Sensoji temple, and Odaiba – allows tourists to enjoy different aspects of Japan, from the past to the present.

Day 3: On your second full day in Tokyo, I suggest a visit to a Japanese Department Store. And more specifically, the opening of a department store for the day. Many department stores are located all across Tokyo, especially near the major train stations. But my recommendation for a department store opening is the Mitsukoshi Department Store’s flagship branch in Nihombashi. The subway exit for the Mitsukoshi Deparment Store is, appropriately, “Mitsukoshi-mae” – literally, “Near Mitsukoshi”. The A4/A5 subway exit will position you in front of the main doors of the “Honkan”, the main building. So what exactly happens when those doors swing open at 10 AM? Well beforehand, two pretty attendants come out and make announcements about the store. Most stores announce only in Japanese, but at least from my experience in visiting Mitsukoshi last year, there was also an announcement in English. Then the doors promptly fly open, and the employees stand at full attention in the aisle, bowing as you pass on by. Walk through a little further and you may get lucky to hear an organ played in the store’s massive atrium. While at Mitsukoshi, as well as any major department store, be sure to visit the basement, where a wide variety of food and confectionary stalls are available to pick at your Japanese culinary curiosity.

Exit Mitsukoshi through the “Shinkan” (new building) and nearby you will see the bridge of the Tokyo Expressway… ironically, underneath of which is Japan’s most historical bridge, the Nihombashi bridge. It’s luster is sort of overshadowed these days by the expressway overhead; nevertheless this bridge is the reference point used to measure all distances in Japan. Though I hear that one of these days, engineers may undo their, um, “mistake” and move the Tokyo Expressway underground at the site of this bridge.

The rest of the day is free for exploration. Though when it comes time to eat you’ll want to try something Japanese for a change. Don’t be afraid even if your understanding of the language is a little flawed. Plunge in and have some fun!

Day 4: Today I would recommend ONE of the following two day trips: Nikko OR Hakone. Nikko, located northeast of Tokyo, is a world heritage site where you can find the mausoleum of the famous shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu, as well as a shinto shrine that dates back over 12 centuries. Hakone, west of Tokyo, is a town located withn Fuji-Izu-Hakone national park, filled with hot springs and gaseous geysers. It’s really hard for me to make a choice between the two, since both Nikko and Hakone are two places that are very important and significant to the history of Japan. Transportation wise, though, I would give the nod to Hakone. Their English pamphlets are easy to follow as you make the circuitous loop around the area.

Day 5 and 6: On Day 5 I suggest that you make the trip by bullet train to Japan’s ancient capital, Kyoto, for two nights. I would suggest that you spend one of these two days taking advantage of the renowned English tour of old Kyoto, “Walk in Tokyo, Talk in English” given by Hajime Hirooka, who calls himself “Johnnie Hillwalker” (not to be confused with Johnnie Walker). It’s an inexpensive, full day walking tour that is operated three times a week except during the winter and holidays. Note that because of the tour’s starting time, you’ll have to leave Tokyo on an early train if you intend to take this tour on Day 5. 

The tour finishes near Kiyomizu-dera, a buddhist temple that is officially a national treasure. Enter the complex and marvel at the vistas and treasures. A popular spot is a waterfall from which three water channels fall into a pond. It is said that wisdom, health and longevity will be conferred to you by drinking out of these three channels of water. In the evening, return to Kyoto Station, a marvel in itself – the new train station building was completed in 1997. On the ground floor of Kyoto Station is a very popular rotating sushi bar restaurant that I highly recommend.

On the day that you don’t take the walking tour, I would suggest one of the following sites near Kyoto: Nijo Castle, the Philosopher’s Walk, and the park located near Demachi-Yanagi station in the Sakyo district that overlooks the Kamo river (an excellent location for people-watching). At night, head over to the Gion District of Tokyo and see if you’re lucky to find authentic Geisha walking to their nightly assignments…. if you feel inclined, walking lectures of Gion called “Kyoto Sights and Nights” are given at dusk at a respectable cost. Tours are given by Peter MacIntosh, a Canadian who moved to Kyoto over 15 years ago and is now an expert in Geisha culture. If you’re willing to put up some more Yen for the VIP service, you can attend an engagement where you can meet a real Geisha (the term “Geiko” is preferred) and/or an apprentice known as a “Maiko”.

Day 7: Return to Tokyo by bullet train in the morning for your final day in Japan. Today I suggest some shopping so that you can bring some momentos back with you… one area that you should definitely visit today is the mecca of electronics in Tokyo, Akihabara (or Akiba for short). Take some time to peruse every store, every alley, and every nook and cranny in this very popular shopping district. If you feel so inclined, maybe try one of those infamous maid cafes while you’re at it! Then at the end of the day, finish your trip to Japan with a trip to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government buildings, located west of Shinjuku station. These “twin towers” of Tokyo stretch up 50 stories, and there are observation decks located at the top… one or both decks are open every day except during the New Year’s holiday. And best of all, the admission is free. Marvel at the vistas below as day turns to night, and your trip to Japan comes to a close.

Day 8: Departure day. Return to Narita Airport and re-enter that pressurized metal tube called an Airplane, remembering your experiences from the past week.

As far as transportation options go: You can easily go for the Japan Rail Pass for 7 days in Standard Class… it will prove to be a good value for the itinerary provided here. The pass should run from Day 2 to Day 8, which means the pass covers your return journey to the Airport using the Narita Express. On Day 1, arrival day, you can travel from Narita to Tokyo any way you wish (again, see my article on Narita Airport for your options). Depending on where you’re staying, I think a good deal is the 3,500 yen Suica+N’EX ticket sold by JR. It gives you a discounted one-way ride on the Narita Express to ANY JR station within central Tokyo, and a Suica card worth 1,500 yen that can be used for train travel, food purchases, etc. Suica can be used on just about ANY local train service in the Tokyo region; it’ll be especially useful if you need to take the Tokyo subways, which are not covered by the Japan Rail Pass. Note that if you need to recharge the Suica card, you must do so at a JR station.

On Day 4, your travel options to Nikko or Hakone, depending on what you decide:

HAKONE: You’ll want to pay for the Hakone Free Pass which includes all of the major transportation in the Hakone area. The main starting point for the trip is Odawara; with a Japan Rail Pass you can travel on the Tokaido Line from Tokyo to Odawara – a few trains also go from Shinjuku too. For a faster ride you can even take the Tokaido Shinkansen “Kodama” train which leaves Tokyo and Shinagawa twice every hour and cuts the travel time down quickly… yes, the Japan Rail Pass covers all of these. From Odawara purchase the Hakone Free Pass for 3,900 yen. The pass entitles you to unlimited travel from Odawara into the Hakone region for 2 consecutive days, though you’ll only need it for one. At the end of your day, return to Odawara and take the bullet train or Tokaido Line back to Tokyo.

NIKKO: A little more complicated. You have the option of using JR to travel up to Nikko, or the private Tobu Railway line that operates out of Asakusa station (near Sensoji and the ‘golden froth’). The Tobu Railway’s World Heritage Pass for 3,600 yen includes round-trip train travel on a local Tobu Railway service, the Tobu bus to the world heritage sites, and admission to said world heritage sites: Tokugawa Ieyasu Mausoleum (or Tosho-gu), Futarasan Shrine and Rinnoji Temple. For an additional cost you can travel in the limited express trains known as “Spacia”. This will speed up your trip and is a recommended addition to the World Heritage Pass ticket. World Heritage Passes can be bought online, and Tobu offers a 20% discount on the Spacia fare when it is purchased with the pass at the same time. The total cost, then, is approximately 5,700 yen. Travel time from Asakusa to Nikko is about 2 hours – you may have to change to a shuttle train at Shimo-Imaichi station for the final run to Nikko.

You can use the Japan Rail Pass to travel into Nikko at no charge; take a bullet train on the Tohoku Shinkansen line to Utsunomiya station, then take the JR Nikko line to Nikko. The JR Nikko station is located a little bit south of the Tobu Nikko train station. The drawback is that you will have to pay separately for the Tobu Bus to the world heritage sites, and then pay the combination ticket for the three sites when you get there… which may or may not be all that bad. The travel time from Tokyo station to JR Nikko via this method is between 1:45 and 2 hours depending on the timing of the connection. A day pass for Tobu Bus costs 500 yen and the combination ticket costs 1,000 yen. You can optionally decide to walk the 40 minutes to the heritage sites and get up close and personal with the area. Just follow the signs which will count down the distance as you get closer to the sites. At the halfway point is a tourist information center where you can stop to get a sip of water from a ladle-drawn waterfall.

JR and Tobu also run a joint service from Shinjuku and Ikebukuro stations. The trip from Shinjuku to Tobu-Nikko takes about 2 hours and normally costs 3,900 yen each way. Japan Rail Pass holders must pay a surcharge of 1,560 yen each way, as part of the trip is over the Tobu line, which is not covered under the Japan Rail Pass. Again, buses in Nikko and heritage site admissions are not included, and like the Tobu option you may have to change to a shuttle train for the final leg of your journey by train.

You see? Japan is a large country, but there is still so much that you can cover in just a week! I guarantee that after you try an itinerary like this, you’ll be yearning for more!

Thanks for reading, and remember… this itinerary is provided subject to the disclaimer at the top of the page. 🙂

For more up-to-date information, please read the September 2014 post Tokyo to Kyoto for $21… and other cheap ways to transit Japan

Without question, Tokyo and Kyoto are THE two destinations that should be included if you are intent on visiting Japan for the very first time. Of course, Tokyo and Kyoto are separated by some 231 miles (372 km) if you were to draw a straight line.

Between Tokyo and Kyoto, the two major methods of public transportation are the train and the highway bus. (You might also add air, if continuing to Osaka, but this article will focus on the first two methods of transit.)

So how much will you pay for a ride between Tokyo and Kyoto? This article breaks down the various bus and train options by price.

Obviously if you have a JAPAN RAIL PASS (see my earlier post on this), then this question is moot; simply use your rail pass (Hikari or Kodama only) to make the journey.

But if you do not have a Japan Rail Pass, then you’ll want to examine the prices carefully to see what fits your budget. Note that the prices listed here are rounded to the nearest 100 yen, and are subject to change, including a variance of a few hundred yen either way depending on the time of the year. Let’s begin:

18,200 yen: For this price you will get a reserved first-class seat (called the “Green Car”) in the premium Nozomi service. You may expect to be personally greeted by a Green Car attendant as you enter the train, and the attendant will check your ticket. Hot towel service is provided and you can order food and drinks on board. The seats are wide and comfortable, as I have mentioned in a previous article, and the lighting is noticeably softer than in the other seats.

13,300 yen: For this price you will get a reserved standard-class seat in the premium Nozomi service. You sit in the standard bullet train seats, and food and drinks are sold on board. In these first two instances the travel time from Tokyo to Kyoto is 2 hours, 20 minutes.

Running about 500 or 600 yen cheaper than the above prices are the respective surcharges for travel on the Hikari and Kodama services, which are slower than the premium Nozomi because they make more stops. In the Hikari service, hot towel service is provided in the Green Car, but you are not “greeted” as you board. There is no “greeting” or hot towel service in Kodama trains. Hikari trains make the run to Kyoto in 2 hours, 45 minutes; Kodamas, which stop at EVERY station, take 3 hours, 45 minutes.

My recommendation if you’re purchasing tickets “a la carte” is to spend the extra 500-600 yen and take the Nozomi. There are more Nozomi trains than the others and it is the fastest way to get from Tokyo to Kyoto. Fall back only to the Hikari (and worst case, Kodama) if the Nozomi sells out.

9,800 yen: You can make a cheap trip aboard the bullet train at this price, but it is strange why it’s only marketed to Japanese travelers. I haven’t tried this, but I have read reports of other foreign travelers that have used this method successfully. For 9,800 yen you can purchase a “Puratto Kodama Ticket”, which is a discounted one-way ticket on the Kodama (the slowest bullet train service). You must make a reservation at least one day in advance at a JR Tours office located at a station served by the Shinkansen, i.e. Tokyo or Shinagawa in Tokyo, or at Kyoto station. The JR Tours office is operated by JR Central, and is recognizable by their orange colors. As a bonus, you are entitled to one free drink while on board the train. The “Puratto Kodama Ticket” is also available in the Green Car for 11,300 yen. The prices go up during times of high demand. If you get stumped, you can visit the website for the Puratto Kodama Ticket (http://www.jrtours.co.jp/kodama/), print the page and show it when you want to purchase your ticket.

8,000 yen: At this price you can make a journey on local JR trains from Tokyo to Kyoto, via the Tokaido Main Line.  You will be sitting in regular commuter trains and will have to change trains frequently along the way. On the other hand you’ll be passing through the rural and urban Japanese landscape, getting a better and closer look at areas that the bullet train will just whiz through. Connection times can range anywhere from 2 to 20 minutes for each train that you take. The travel time is approximately nine hours – but that doesn’t figure in the time that you might need for pit stops or a meal.

7,000 yen: For this price you can travel overnight between Tokyo and Kyoto by bus. There are many bus operators between Tokyo and Kyoto, and JR is one of them – bus tickets can be reserved at several channels, including green ticket windows at major JR train stations. On their “Dream” service, which is their standard overnight bus service, you are entitled to a comfortable reclining seat with head and foot rests on a double-decker bus that is configured in a 1 x 1 x 1 configuration; in other words you will have no other passengers directly next to you – you’ll either have an aisle or window. There are also blankets and slippers at your seat, and a toilet is on the first floor of the bus. The price is valid for weekday travel; add about 1,000 yen or so for weekend or holiday travel. An advance purchase of 5 days lobs 1,000 yen OFF of the price. Travel time is 7 1/2 hours from Tokyo Station; buses also run from Shinjuku Station on a different route, taking eight hours. A bus also operates from Tokyo Station restricted to female travelers.

6,000 yen: At this price you can use the same buses described above for a DAYTIME journey between Tokyo and Kyoto. The trip takes eight hours and the bus makes several stops along the way, including a few stops at service areas. There is a discount of 1,000 yen for a 5-day advance purchase. The price does not change depending on the day of the week or whether or not it’s a holiday.

5,000 yen: This is the price for a bus trip from Tokyo to Kyoto on the “Seishun Dream”, translated as “Youth Dream”. It is discounted because it offers less amenities than the regular bus service. Seats are configured 2×2, just like you’d find on a North American Greyhound bus. Seats offer recline, and there is a toilet on board. Regardless of time of day or holiday, the price is 5,000 yen with a 500 yen discount for a 5-day advance purchase. Travel times are similar to the other bus services.

2,300 yen: At last, the price tag of 2,300 yen. Is it possible to travel from Tokyo to Kyoto at such a low price?? Indeed, it IS possible, but as the old saying goes, “Certain restrictions apply.”

The rules are as follows: First, you must travel to and within Japan during one of the country’s three designated school holiday periods: March 1 – April 10, July 20 – September 10, and December 10 – January 20.

Secondly, you must travel with four other people… either four of your friends who want to go to Japan, or four Japanese friends, etc… finding the four people to go with you is your choice, and of course, your responsibility.

Finally, one person must purchase a ticket sold DURING the school holiday periods, called the “Seishun 18 Ticket”. This ticket sells for 11,500 yen and allows for unlimited travel on JR’s LOCAL TRAINS only: NO SHINKANSEN or LIMITED EXPRESS trains.

There are several ways it can be used. One person can use it for any five days within the given time period… or multiple people can use the single ticket. Essentially there are five spaces on the ticket, and each space allows one person to ride for one day. So if two people used the ticket, there would be three spaces left over, etc.

If FIVE people use the ticket on a single day, then you’re looking at one darn cheap method of traveling long distance! Simply purchase the ticket, and make sure everyone stays together. As you go into the system, your ticket is stamped five times. So all five of you are set for the journey. As mentioned above, you will travel on local trains only – no bullet trains. The travel time is about 9 hours, not accounting for pit stops or meal stops. But here’s a good thing: with the Seishun 18 ticket, if you all stay together, you can exit the system at any station and return to the system on the same day – just show your stamped ticket. With this in mind, perhaps you can exit the system at a major train station – say for example, Odawara, Shizuoka, Hamamatsu, Toyohashi or Nagoya – and head into a restaurant within the station, or enjoy some treats within the floors of a Japanese department store.

This 2,300 yen plan also works for other long-haul trips such as Tokyo to Nagoya or Tokyo to Osaka. The ticket price of 11,500 yen, divided by five, equals 2,300 yen. Even if four or three were to take the trip, the trip breaks down to 2,875 yen or 3,830 yen per person respectively – which can very well be a TREMENDOUS savings compared to standard train prices, or even bus prices.

My motto when it comes to Japan travel: always research as much as possible about your trip. This way it will make your trip much more enjoyable when it happens – not to mention it MAY just be a little lighter on the wallet!

On the heels of my recent post on the Japan Rail Pass, I would like to share a tip with you that will make travel in major Japanese cities a little bit easier… not to mention a little more interesting.

Do you want to travel between cities but don’t feel like standing up to the crush of commuters every morning or evening? Granted, you’ll probably want to give a trip or two in a Yamanote Line sardine can, for example, a shot at some point. But what if you are carrying something with you, such as luggage? Or are you the type that prefers to be away from all of that hustle and bustle?

In certain instances, the solution is in your Japan Rail Pass. The pass permits you to use most any JR-operated train for the duration of your pass. This includes everything from commuter trains to the bullet train, as well as something that falls in between – the Limited Express, or tokkyu in Japanese. Limited Express trains generally operate over considerable distances, and operate for the most part on regular JR commuter lines.

In the case of Limited Express and Shinkansen (bullet) trains, your pass entitles you a free seat reservation in a reserved seat. But what it also entitles you to is, space permitting, a non-reserved seat. Limited Express and Shinkansen trains, with few exceptions, have a certain number of unreserved seats that can be used.

So how exactly do you use it? First you must determine what journey you will take, and if a limited express or bullet train can cover the trip. Next you must find out if the train offers non-reserved seating… train carriages will be marked “non-reserved” in english. Then, simply hop on board and let the train take you to your destination.

A good example of putting this to good use is on JR’s Kyoto to Osaka corridor. When trains seem to be at capacity and you want a good alternative, then you might want to consider taking a limited express service that operates frequently between the two cities… this includes the Thunderbird, Raicho and Haruka. Japan Railway’s english timetable pamphlets list the majority of the limited express trains in the country – Kansai included – and departure/arrival times. These limited express services generally arrive on separate platforms from the crowded commuter lines, and the chances are usually good that you will get a seat. Look up the time, go to the platform, look for the correct car, and hop on. When the conductor approaches, smile, show him your pass, and announce your intended destination.

Adding to these particular options – the bullet train between Kyoto and (Shin-)Osaka. Your rail pass allows you to take any of up to three hourly departures (2 Hikari trains and 1 Kodama), and each of these trains have unreserved seats.

It is also possible to make seat reservations in reserved cars for short journeys such as this… you can make such reservations at the “Midori-no-Madoguchi”, or Green Counter, at the major JR stations.

In Tokyo, you could utilize, for example, the Odoriko between Tokyo and Yokohama/Odawara, the Azusa/Kaiji from Shinjuku to Mitaka/Hachioji, or the bullet train between Tokyo, Ueno and Omiya. One interesting attempt was successfully completed by this writer… I was traveling from a hotel near Ueno Station all the way down to a hotel in Osaka. My train left in the morning, in the heart of the Tokyo rush hour. But in order to get to the bullet train that went to Osaka, I had to take a regular commuter train from Ueno to Tokyo… which would have been a pain with luggage PLUS all of those commuters.

Note that there are two separate bullet train lines that serve Tokyo: One goes south to Kyoto, Osaka and beyond,  while a separate system operates to the north.

So my solution? A little bit of exercise to walk down to the bullet train line serving Ueno station. I entered an unreserved car of a Tokyo-bound bullet train, and made a leisurely, low-speed journey to Tokyo station. No standing shoulder-to-shoulder with other commuters using the main lines… and upon reaching Tokyo station, it was a simple transfer through a small, dedicated gate to access the other bullet train that would bring me to Osaka.

With the Japan Rail Pass, some knowledge about the pass, and careful research and planning… new, exciting, convenient, and even unusual transit methods will open up to you.

If you intend to do a lot of traveling around Japan, then the Japan Rail Pass could very well be your best friend. A variety of Rail Passes are available, covering the entire country or just a few specific areas.

If you are going to restrict your travels to Tokyo and the surrounding area, then it probably won’t be worth it to purchase a rail pass of any sort; you’ll probably resort to regular tickets, day passes, etc. On the other hand, if you intend to travel out to several cities around Japan, then purchasing the national Japan Rail Pass may help you.

The national Japan Rail Pass is available in 7-day consecutive, 14-day and 21-day versions, and there are passes for ordinary class and green class (the equivalent to coach and first class respectively). If you are just planning to confine a bulk of your travels, however, to just a specific area, for example north of Tokyo to the Tohoku region, then you might want to consider something more specific – and likely cheaper – in this case, something like the JR East Rail Pass.

There’s one real litmus test to determine whether or not a national rail pass is right for you: Do you intend to travel a lot on the bullet train? If you intend to travel, for example, from Tokyo to Kyoto, the regular ticket price is 26,440 yen round trip on the bullet train service known as the Hikari. The 7-day Japan Rail Pass is 28,300 yen… so if you consider the round trip between Tokyo and Kyoto, local trips around Tokyo and the Kansai region by JR, and a round-trip on a JR train service to and from the airport (Tokyo to Narita Airport on the Narita Express, or if you are in Kyoto or Osaka, a round-trip to Kansai Airport on the Haruka train) then the cost of travel will exceed the cost of the pass, making it a good value.

Of course, the more you travel in a specific period, the more you can likely save. One good way to figure out the cost savings is to do some research… Go to a site like Hyperdia which allows you to find out the cost of train travel between two major cities (and train times, which helps too). Add those numbers up at the end to see what you get.

I highly recommend, only if your budget allows, the Green Car rail pass. First class cars, especially on the bullet trains, are particularly nice… you get wider, more comfortable seats, more recline, a reading light, hot towel service at your seat, and if you have headphones you can plug in and listen to six channels of music. (Granted that everything will be in Japanese, but hey, it’s at least something that will help pass the time as you whiz by the countryside)

One drawback about the rail pass is that you cannot use the Nozomi, the premium bullet train service that’s in operation. Nozomi operates on the Tokaido and San’yo Shinkansen; so if you use any of these you’ll be forced to use a Hikari or Kodama train. Out of these, Hikari is the fastest; Kodama on the other hand stops at every single station along the way. For a trip between Tokyo and Osaka for example, Kodama trains will add one hour to your travel time (a 4 hour trip instead of 3 hours on the Hikari).

You must purchase a travel voucher within your country for a national Japan Rail Pass, and then exchange the voucher for a rail pass upon arrival in Japan. Rail Pass counters in Japan can be found at Narita and Kansai Airports; you are also able to obtain your rail pass at JR’s major train stations. If you intend to use a JR train to travel into the city, you may want to do the exchange at the airport. If you are in Tokyo and you don’t get your rail pass at Narita Airport, an excellent location to obtain your pass is at Tokyo Station. Tokyo Station – large as it may be – has a dedicated Rail Pass exchange counter. The english-speaking staff is friendly and is willing to help you out. This counter is located towards the Yaesu side – the east side – of Tokyo Station.

If you live in the US, Kintetsu International allows you to purchase your Rail Pass voucher online; it will be delivered to you by regular mail.

Hopefully in my next post I will offer a little secret that will allow you, with your national Rail Pass, to use some trains to your advantage – while allowing you to skip rush hour crowds.

Congratulations! If you’ve made it past the hustle and bustle of Narita Airport – not to mention all of the formalities – then welcome yourself to perhaps one of the most unique cities on Earth, not to mention the 11th most populated on earth: Tokyo. Once you’ve settled in to your hotel, it’s time to head on out and travel around the city to the places that you have marked on your to-do list.

Japan is renowned for it’s transportation system, and Tokyo is certainly no exception. Among the many elevated and underground train lines that criss-cross the center of the city like strands of spaghetti is a very important line – one that you should consider using frequently during your visit around Tokyo, especially the first. That line is the Yamanote Line, Tokyo’s loop line operated by Japan Railways (JR). The Yamanote Line makes a circle and stops at a total of 29 stations – all of which are important areas of the city.

Trains on the Yamanote run in both directions, and for the most part run continuously without terminating until late at night. The trains are the outer (clockwise) loop are classified as sotomawari, and inner (counter-clockwise) loop trains are known as uchimawari. A complete circuit of the Yamanote takes about one hour, but in general you should not have to travel more than 30 minutes or so to get to your destination (simply travel in one direction or the other).

The Yamanote Line is so important to Tokyo, that about 3,550,000 people use it every day – making the Yamanote Line the world’s busiest. All but two stations (Shin-Okubo and Mejiro) provide a connection to another JR Line, subway line, or private line. An American author who wrote about his visits to Japan put it thus: “When the Yamanote Line stops, Tokyo stops.”

Remember, since the Yamanote Line is operated by JR, access to the line is free if you have a valid Japan Rail Pass or JR East Rail Pass. 

As with other metropolitan areas, it’s best to avoid the rush hour when the Yamanote Line trains become standing room only… in fact, two of the train’s 11 cars have seats that fold up to permit more passengers on board. Travel during the afternoon rush is just a little lighter but still very crowded.

Trains are easily recognizable by their green color, and there are automated station announcements in both Japanese and English.

The Yamanote’s major stations include: Tokyo, Shinagawa, Shibuya, Harajuku, Shinjuku, Ikebukuro, Nippori, Ueno and Akihabara.

To travel around Tokyo easily and quickly, the Yamanote Line is usually your best bet. However, if you’re a little more advanced, there are two other JR-operated train lines that bisect the Yamanote Line Loop: The Chuo Line Rapid is the fastest, cutting across the loop between Tokyo and Shinjuku in about 15 minutes compared to 30 on the Yamanote. The slower Chuo Line local runs a little less frequently than the Yamanote Line and bisects the loop between Akihabara and Shinjuku in 17 minutes compared to the Yamanote’s 25.