So you wanna follow the Tokaido Road, but don’t have a lot of time? Then I hope this suggested course helps you out. Traveling the old Tokaido is something that I’ve been wanting to do for a while now… Hopefully on one of my next trips to Japan I’ll be able to pull it off. If you’re interested, then I’ll give you the lowdown on how you can use the train to successfully navigate through a path that dates back over 400 years.

So what exactly IS the Tokaido Road? The Tokaido was one of five major routes that spread out from Edo (present-day Tokyo) back in Japan’s period of isolationism. Construction began back in 1601 under the control of Tokugawa Ieyasu. The Tokaido, and all of the other routes, were ways for officials and commoners to travel, carry out business and do trade.

The Tokaido Road contained 53 “stations”, or rest areas where lodging, food and entertainment were available. 400 years later, this road would meld into modern society with the construction of roads, conventional trains, and the bullet train. Traveling the Tokaido today will allow you to explore a unique essence… one that can only be discovered along this hallowed path.

Now if you REALLY have the time, as American professor James Baquet did in 2001, you can walk the Tokaido yourself from Tokyo to Kyoto. Baquet did the walk in 35 days, although it is said that back in the day the Japanese took less time to cover that distance. On the other hand, you, the faithful traveller, only have yea number of days worth of vacation in Japan, making a complete walk along the 319-mile path infeasible.

Thankfully, though, there’s the wonderful Japanese train system… punctual and efficient. By train you will have many options, from type of train to duration of trip. You could take the bullet train, but this would destroy the trip for our purposes as the different aspects of Japan will turn into a blur as your train zips along. For us, going “local” is the way to go.

The journey can be as simple as taking the Tokaido Line, which runs close to the route of the old Tokaido between Tokyo and Nagoya, then takes a detour via Maibara on the way to Kyoto. To cover this journey in a single day will require changing trains multiple times. But, despite the fact that people flock to the bullet train, trains on the regular Tokaido Line still operate on a regular schedule and you shouldn’t have to wait long to change trains no matter where you transfer.

As mentioned in a previous article, it is possible to cover the journey in a single day using local trains. This will cost you about 8,000 yen for the one-way trip. Users of the Seishun 18 ticket, at the appropriate time of the year, can see dramatic savings on this journey if traveling together in a group. Here’s an idea for a Monday along the JR Tokaido Line, an eight-train ride assuming a one-hour stop for lunch in Hamamatsu, an important hub in central Japan:

Train 739M: Depart Tokyo 07:02, Arrive Odawara 08:25
Train 741M: Depart Odawara 08:38, Arrive Atami 09:02
Train 1427M: Depart Atami 09:06, Arrive Shizuoka 10:30
Train 757M: Depart Shizuoka 10:43, Arrive Hamamatsu 11:52
LUNCH
Train 951M: Depart Hamamatsu 13:09, Arrive Toyohashi 13:43
Train 2327F: Depart Toyohashi 13:55 (Arrive Nagoya 14:43), Arrive Ogaki 15:16
Train 237F: Depart Ogaki 15:40, Arrive Maibara 16:17
Train 3491M: Depart Maibara 16:19, Arrive Kyoto 17:12 (5:12 PM)
Total Time: 10 hours 10 minutes

You can also opt to be flexible if you wish, and spread this journey out into a few days. How about using the hub stations as starting points for day adventures into Japanese life, culture and attractions?  Why not find a traditional ryokan or two along the way?  If you REALLY wanted as much time on your hands as possible to wander around these areas, then perhaps the bullet train will be to your benefit… KODAMA trains depart twice an hour from all of the Tokaido Shinkansen’s intermediate stations.

As you can tell the possibilities are endless. It all depends on how much time you have and how much you want to absorb yourself.

During my ‘curiosity searching’ I have found that there are other JR lines, as well as private railways, that operate routes closer to the actual Tokaido Road. Here is another sample that I’ve come up with, keeping this in mind. This is a two-day idea with an overnight rest in Nagoya.

The starting point for this trip is the underground Nihombashi station, the closest train stop to the Nihombashi bridge where the Tokaido Road officially begins. The first train departs at the end of the rush hour on the Toei Asakusa Line, and continues on to the Keikyu Line, a private railway.

Toei Asakusa Line and Keikyu Main Line
Train 970H, 970SH: Depart Nihombashi 9:29, Arrive Yokohama 10:06

JR Tokaido Line
Train 775M: Depart Yokohama 10:18, Arrive Atami 11:39
Train 1435M: Depart Atami 11:47, Arrive Numazu 12:07
Train 777M: Depart Numazu 12:19, Arrive Shizuoka 13:12
LUNCH
Train 441M: Depart Shizuoka 14:42, Arrive Hamamatsu 15:32
Train 967M: Depart Hamamatsu 15:46, Arrive Toyohashi 16:19

Meitetsu Main Line (Another private railway)
Train 173 (Rapid Limited Express): Depart Toyohashi 16:32, Arrive Meitetsu Nagoya 17:21

OVERNIGHT in Nagoya

JR Kansai Line
Train 2301M: Depart JR Nagoya 09:03, Arrive Kaneyama 10:03
Train 241D: Depart Kaneyama 10:45, Arrive Tsuge 11:10

JR Kusatsu Line
Train 5353M: Depart Tsuge 11:31, Arrive Kusatsu 12:15

JR Tokaido Line
Train 3455M: Depart Kusatsu 12:24, Arrive Yamashina 12:38

From Yamashina station it’s a short, four-stop ride on the underground Kyoto subway to Sanjo Keihan station (about 10 minutes), a short walk away from the Sanjo-Ohashi bridge… marking the official end of the Tokaido Road.

Fare breakdown:
Toei Asakusa/Keikyu Line, Nihombashi-Yokohama: 510 yen
JR Line, Yokohama-Toyohashi: 4620 yen
Meitetsu Line, Toyohashi-Meitetsu Nagoya: 1430 yen (1080 yen regular fare + 350 yen reserved seat ticket)
JR Line, Nagoya-Yamashina via Tsuge: 2210 yen
Kyoto Subway Tozai Line, Yamashina-Sanjo Keihan: 250 yen
TOTAL: 9020 yen (without the Meitetsu Reserved Seat the cost is 8770 yen)

The disadvantage is that you’ll have to purchase multiple tickets along the way, and the fare is slightly more expensive than just sticking to the Tokaido. On the plus side, you’re closer to the old Tokaido, and there will be more to see, especially on the section between Nagoya and Kusatsu where trains are far and few between.

Once again… many possibilities. It’s all up to you as you plan for your trip. Is a trip along the Tokaido right for you? If not then there are sure to be more “courses” for you to explore in this majestic country!

My sources for the published ideas are Wikipedia, Google Maps, Hyperdia, Ekikara, Tokyo Government and Meitetsu. These ideas are offered for your consideration, subject to the disclaimer (click the ‘disclaimer’ tab at the top). ^_^

If you are interested in visiting the land of the rising sun for the very first time, then I think you need to have at least two weeks to spare. But what if you don’t have that much time?

Here’s an idea for a one-week, seven night journey in Japan that covers all of the important sites. We’ll assume that you will land at Narita Airport, which is the main International airport for Tokyo.

Day 0: You read it correctly… at least if you’re coming from or via North America. I like to call this Day Zero because on this day, well, you’re pretty much a zero in all aspects. All you do is spend the time sitting on the plane. The date will advance to tomorrow as you pass the Earth’s International Date Line. So, for all intents and purposes, this day really should not count. If you can survive the ride inside the pressurized metal tube, you’ll be treated to a reward unlike any other… Japan itself.

Day 1: Touchdown at Narita Airport. You’ll have to go through the disembarkation procedures (outlined in an earlier article). Once you arrive in Tokyo, and have checked into your room, you’ll probably be exhausted. This is the moment to take a shower, change up your clothes a bit, and perhaps take a brief nap. Then there’s the question of dinner… if you feel like your brain is already cooked from the trip then you might want to consider a fast food restaurant that you are familiar with, such as McDonald’s or KFC. But more importantly, take a moment to stop, take a deep breath, and take in your surroundings. Walk around the block for example, or if you feel inclined for a little jaunt, take the train over to Shibuya and marvel at the crowds going through the world’s busiest pedestrian intersection, known as the “Scramble Crossing”. You’ll find the crossing to the east of Shibuya station, and you can get a nice view of it out of a window that is part of the access ramp to the Keio Inokashira train line.

Day 2: Your first full day in Japan. As you arise and have breakfast, I suggest a full day’s worth of walking that I call “Classic Tokyo, Modern Tokyo.” This itinerary, which is available in great detail on the Wikitravel site, more or less retraces the foot steps that I took on my first full day in the country, in June of 2004. Starting from Tokyo Station, walk west to the grounds of the Imperial Palace. (If you’re lucky you may be able to make an advance reservation for a guided tour, which I did not opt for. The tour is in Japanese but English language materials are provided.) Next, take the train to Asakusa and walk through the shopping arcade to Sensoji Temple, the oldest buddhist temple in Tokyo. Return to the Asakusa train station after catching a glimpse of the “Golden Turd”, or what is supposed to be beer froth, from the top of the Asahi Beer building across the river. Head on down to the Yurikamome Light Rail train for a spectacular ride to Tokyo’s entertainment paradise of Odaiba. Add a meal anywhere in between and you’re set for the day. These three locations – Imperial Palace, Sensoji temple, and Odaiba – allows tourists to enjoy different aspects of Japan, from the past to the present.

Day 3: On your second full day in Tokyo, I suggest a visit to a Japanese Department Store. And more specifically, the opening of a department store for the day. Many department stores are located all across Tokyo, especially near the major train stations. But my recommendation for a department store opening is the Mitsukoshi Department Store’s flagship branch in Nihombashi. The subway exit for the Mitsukoshi Deparment Store is, appropriately, “Mitsukoshi-mae” – literally, “Near Mitsukoshi”. The A4/A5 subway exit will position you in front of the main doors of the “Honkan”, the main building. So what exactly happens when those doors swing open at 10 AM? Well beforehand, two pretty attendants come out and make announcements about the store. Most stores announce only in Japanese, but at least from my experience in visiting Mitsukoshi last year, there was also an announcement in English. Then the doors promptly fly open, and the employees stand at full attention in the aisle, bowing as you pass on by. Walk through a little further and you may get lucky to hear an organ played in the store’s massive atrium. While at Mitsukoshi, as well as any major department store, be sure to visit the basement, where a wide variety of food and confectionary stalls are available to pick at your Japanese culinary curiosity.

Exit Mitsukoshi through the “Shinkan” (new building) and nearby you will see the bridge of the Tokyo Expressway… ironically, underneath of which is Japan’s most historical bridge, the Nihombashi bridge. It’s luster is sort of overshadowed these days by the expressway overhead; nevertheless this bridge is the reference point used to measure all distances in Japan. Though I hear that one of these days, engineers may undo their, um, “mistake” and move the Tokyo Expressway underground at the site of this bridge.

The rest of the day is free for exploration. Though when it comes time to eat you’ll want to try something Japanese for a change. Don’t be afraid even if your understanding of the language is a little flawed. Plunge in and have some fun!

Day 4: Today I would recommend ONE of the following two day trips: Nikko OR Hakone. Nikko, located northeast of Tokyo, is a world heritage site where you can find the mausoleum of the famous shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu, as well as a shinto shrine that dates back over 12 centuries. Hakone, west of Tokyo, is a town located withn Fuji-Izu-Hakone national park, filled with hot springs and gaseous geysers. It’s really hard for me to make a choice between the two, since both Nikko and Hakone are two places that are very important and significant to the history of Japan. Transportation wise, though, I would give the nod to Hakone. Their English pamphlets are easy to follow as you make the circuitous loop around the area.

Day 5 and 6: On Day 5 I suggest that you make the trip by bullet train to Japan’s ancient capital, Kyoto, for two nights. I would suggest that you spend one of these two days taking advantage of the renowned English tour of old Kyoto, “Walk in Tokyo, Talk in English” given by Hajime Hirooka, who calls himself “Johnnie Hillwalker” (not to be confused with Johnnie Walker). It’s an inexpensive, full day walking tour that is operated three times a week except during the winter and holidays. Note that because of the tour’s starting time, you’ll have to leave Tokyo on an early train if you intend to take this tour on Day 5. 

The tour finishes near Kiyomizu-dera, a buddhist temple that is officially a national treasure. Enter the complex and marvel at the vistas and treasures. A popular spot is a waterfall from which three water channels fall into a pond. It is said that wisdom, health and longevity will be conferred to you by drinking out of these three channels of water. In the evening, return to Kyoto Station, a marvel in itself – the new train station building was completed in 1997. On the ground floor of Kyoto Station is a very popular rotating sushi bar restaurant that I highly recommend.

On the day that you don’t take the walking tour, I would suggest one of the following sites near Kyoto: Nijo Castle, the Philosopher’s Walk, and the park located near Demachi-Yanagi station in the Sakyo district that overlooks the Kamo river (an excellent location for people-watching). At night, head over to the Gion District of Tokyo and see if you’re lucky to find authentic Geisha walking to their nightly assignments…. if you feel inclined, walking lectures of Gion called “Kyoto Sights and Nights” are given at dusk at a respectable cost. Tours are given by Peter MacIntosh, a Canadian who moved to Kyoto over 15 years ago and is now an expert in Geisha culture. If you’re willing to put up some more Yen for the VIP service, you can attend an engagement where you can meet a real Geisha (the term “Geiko” is preferred) and/or an apprentice known as a “Maiko”.

Day 7: Return to Tokyo by bullet train in the morning for your final day in Japan. Today I suggest some shopping so that you can bring some momentos back with you… one area that you should definitely visit today is the mecca of electronics in Tokyo, Akihabara (or Akiba for short). Take some time to peruse every store, every alley, and every nook and cranny in this very popular shopping district. If you feel so inclined, maybe try one of those infamous maid cafes while you’re at it! Then at the end of the day, finish your trip to Japan with a trip to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government buildings, located west of Shinjuku station. These “twin towers” of Tokyo stretch up 50 stories, and there are observation decks located at the top… one or both decks are open every day except during the New Year’s holiday. And best of all, the admission is free. Marvel at the vistas below as day turns to night, and your trip to Japan comes to a close.

Day 8: Departure day. Return to Narita Airport and re-enter that pressurized metal tube called an Airplane, remembering your experiences from the past week.

As far as transportation options go: You can easily go for the Japan Rail Pass for 7 days in Standard Class… it will prove to be a good value for the itinerary provided here. The pass should run from Day 2 to Day 8, which means the pass covers your return journey to the Airport using the Narita Express. On Day 1, arrival day, you can travel from Narita to Tokyo any way you wish (again, see my article on Narita Airport for your options). Depending on where you’re staying, I think a good deal is the 3,500 yen Suica+N’EX ticket sold by JR. It gives you a discounted one-way ride on the Narita Express to ANY JR station within central Tokyo, and a Suica card worth 1,500 yen that can be used for train travel, food purchases, etc. Suica can be used on just about ANY local train service in the Tokyo region; it’ll be especially useful if you need to take the Tokyo subways, which are not covered by the Japan Rail Pass. Note that if you need to recharge the Suica card, you must do so at a JR station.

On Day 4, your travel options to Nikko or Hakone, depending on what you decide:

HAKONE: You’ll want to pay for the Hakone Free Pass which includes all of the major transportation in the Hakone area. The main starting point for the trip is Odawara; with a Japan Rail Pass you can travel on the Tokaido Line from Tokyo to Odawara – a few trains also go from Shinjuku too. For a faster ride you can even take the Tokaido Shinkansen “Kodama” train which leaves Tokyo and Shinagawa twice every hour and cuts the travel time down quickly… yes, the Japan Rail Pass covers all of these. From Odawara purchase the Hakone Free Pass for 3,900 yen. The pass entitles you to unlimited travel from Odawara into the Hakone region for 2 consecutive days, though you’ll only need it for one. At the end of your day, return to Odawara and take the bullet train or Tokaido Line back to Tokyo.

NIKKO: A little more complicated. You have the option of using JR to travel up to Nikko, or the private Tobu Railway line that operates out of Asakusa station (near Sensoji and the ‘golden froth’). The Tobu Railway’s World Heritage Pass for 3,600 yen includes round-trip train travel on a local Tobu Railway service, the Tobu bus to the world heritage sites, and admission to said world heritage sites: Tokugawa Ieyasu Mausoleum (or Tosho-gu), Futarasan Shrine and Rinnoji Temple. For an additional cost you can travel in the limited express trains known as “Spacia”. This will speed up your trip and is a recommended addition to the World Heritage Pass ticket. World Heritage Passes can be bought online, and Tobu offers a 20% discount on the Spacia fare when it is purchased with the pass at the same time. The total cost, then, is approximately 5,700 yen. Travel time from Asakusa to Nikko is about 2 hours – you may have to change to a shuttle train at Shimo-Imaichi station for the final run to Nikko.

You can use the Japan Rail Pass to travel into Nikko at no charge; take a bullet train on the Tohoku Shinkansen line to Utsunomiya station, then take the JR Nikko line to Nikko. The JR Nikko station is located a little bit south of the Tobu Nikko train station. The drawback is that you will have to pay separately for the Tobu Bus to the world heritage sites, and then pay the combination ticket for the three sites when you get there… which may or may not be all that bad. The travel time from Tokyo station to JR Nikko via this method is between 1:45 and 2 hours depending on the timing of the connection. A day pass for Tobu Bus costs 500 yen and the combination ticket costs 1,000 yen. You can optionally decide to walk the 40 minutes to the heritage sites and get up close and personal with the area. Just follow the signs which will count down the distance as you get closer to the sites. At the halfway point is a tourist information center where you can stop to get a sip of water from a ladle-drawn waterfall.

JR and Tobu also run a joint service from Shinjuku and Ikebukuro stations. The trip from Shinjuku to Tobu-Nikko takes about 2 hours and normally costs 3,900 yen each way. Japan Rail Pass holders must pay a surcharge of 1,560 yen each way, as part of the trip is over the Tobu line, which is not covered under the Japan Rail Pass. Again, buses in Nikko and heritage site admissions are not included, and like the Tobu option you may have to change to a shuttle train for the final leg of your journey by train.

You see? Japan is a large country, but there is still so much that you can cover in just a week! I guarantee that after you try an itinerary like this, you’ll be yearning for more!

Thanks for reading, and remember… this itinerary is provided subject to the disclaimer at the top of the page. 🙂

For more up-to-date information, please read the September 2014 post Tokyo to Kyoto for $21… and other cheap ways to transit Japan

Without question, Tokyo and Kyoto are THE two destinations that should be included if you are intent on visiting Japan for the very first time. Of course, Tokyo and Kyoto are separated by some 231 miles (372 km) if you were to draw a straight line.

Between Tokyo and Kyoto, the two major methods of public transportation are the train and the highway bus. (You might also add air, if continuing to Osaka, but this article will focus on the first two methods of transit.)

So how much will you pay for a ride between Tokyo and Kyoto? This article breaks down the various bus and train options by price.

Obviously if you have a JAPAN RAIL PASS (see my earlier post on this), then this question is moot; simply use your rail pass (Hikari or Kodama only) to make the journey.

But if you do not have a Japan Rail Pass, then you’ll want to examine the prices carefully to see what fits your budget. Note that the prices listed here are rounded to the nearest 100 yen, and are subject to change, including a variance of a few hundred yen either way depending on the time of the year. Let’s begin:

18,200 yen: For this price you will get a reserved first-class seat (called the “Green Car”) in the premium Nozomi service. You may expect to be personally greeted by a Green Car attendant as you enter the train, and the attendant will check your ticket. Hot towel service is provided and you can order food and drinks on board. The seats are wide and comfortable, as I have mentioned in a previous article, and the lighting is noticeably softer than in the other seats.

13,300 yen: For this price you will get a reserved standard-class seat in the premium Nozomi service. You sit in the standard bullet train seats, and food and drinks are sold on board. In these first two instances the travel time from Tokyo to Kyoto is 2 hours, 20 minutes.

Running about 500 or 600 yen cheaper than the above prices are the respective surcharges for travel on the Hikari and Kodama services, which are slower than the premium Nozomi because they make more stops. In the Hikari service, hot towel service is provided in the Green Car, but you are not “greeted” as you board. There is no “greeting” or hot towel service in Kodama trains. Hikari trains make the run to Kyoto in 2 hours, 45 minutes; Kodamas, which stop at EVERY station, take 3 hours, 45 minutes.

My recommendation if you’re purchasing tickets “a la carte” is to spend the extra 500-600 yen and take the Nozomi. There are more Nozomi trains than the others and it is the fastest way to get from Tokyo to Kyoto. Fall back only to the Hikari (and worst case, Kodama) if the Nozomi sells out.

9,800 yen: You can make a cheap trip aboard the bullet train at this price, but it is strange why it’s only marketed to Japanese travelers. I haven’t tried this, but I have read reports of other foreign travelers that have used this method successfully. For 9,800 yen you can purchase a “Puratto Kodama Ticket”, which is a discounted one-way ticket on the Kodama (the slowest bullet train service). You must make a reservation at least one day in advance at a JR Tours office located at a station served by the Shinkansen, i.e. Tokyo or Shinagawa in Tokyo, or at Kyoto station. The JR Tours office is operated by JR Central, and is recognizable by their orange colors. As a bonus, you are entitled to one free drink while on board the train. The “Puratto Kodama Ticket” is also available in the Green Car for 11,300 yen. The prices go up during times of high demand. If you get stumped, you can visit the website for the Puratto Kodama Ticket (http://www.jrtours.co.jp/kodama/), print the page and show it when you want to purchase your ticket.

8,000 yen: At this price you can make a journey on local JR trains from Tokyo to Kyoto, via the Tokaido Main Line.  You will be sitting in regular commuter trains and will have to change trains frequently along the way. On the other hand you’ll be passing through the rural and urban Japanese landscape, getting a better and closer look at areas that the bullet train will just whiz through. Connection times can range anywhere from 2 to 20 minutes for each train that you take. The travel time is approximately nine hours – but that doesn’t figure in the time that you might need for pit stops or a meal.

7,000 yen: For this price you can travel overnight between Tokyo and Kyoto by bus. There are many bus operators between Tokyo and Kyoto, and JR is one of them – bus tickets can be reserved at several channels, including green ticket windows at major JR train stations. On their “Dream” service, which is their standard overnight bus service, you are entitled to a comfortable reclining seat with head and foot rests on a double-decker bus that is configured in a 1 x 1 x 1 configuration; in other words you will have no other passengers directly next to you – you’ll either have an aisle or window. There are also blankets and slippers at your seat, and a toilet is on the first floor of the bus. The price is valid for weekday travel; add about 1,000 yen or so for weekend or holiday travel. An advance purchase of 5 days lobs 1,000 yen OFF of the price. Travel time is 7 1/2 hours from Tokyo Station; buses also run from Shinjuku Station on a different route, taking eight hours. A bus also operates from Tokyo Station restricted to female travelers.

6,000 yen: At this price you can use the same buses described above for a DAYTIME journey between Tokyo and Kyoto. The trip takes eight hours and the bus makes several stops along the way, including a few stops at service areas. There is a discount of 1,000 yen for a 5-day advance purchase. The price does not change depending on the day of the week or whether or not it’s a holiday.

5,000 yen: This is the price for a bus trip from Tokyo to Kyoto on the “Seishun Dream”, translated as “Youth Dream”. It is discounted because it offers less amenities than the regular bus service. Seats are configured 2×2, just like you’d find on a North American Greyhound bus. Seats offer recline, and there is a toilet on board. Regardless of time of day or holiday, the price is 5,000 yen with a 500 yen discount for a 5-day advance purchase. Travel times are similar to the other bus services.

2,300 yen: At last, the price tag of 2,300 yen. Is it possible to travel from Tokyo to Kyoto at such a low price?? Indeed, it IS possible, but as the old saying goes, “Certain restrictions apply.”

The rules are as follows: First, you must travel to and within Japan during one of the country’s three designated school holiday periods: March 1 – April 10, July 20 – September 10, and December 10 – January 20.

Secondly, you must travel with four other people… either four of your friends who want to go to Japan, or four Japanese friends, etc… finding the four people to go with you is your choice, and of course, your responsibility.

Finally, one person must purchase a ticket sold DURING the school holiday periods, called the “Seishun 18 Ticket”. This ticket sells for 11,500 yen and allows for unlimited travel on JR’s LOCAL TRAINS only: NO SHINKANSEN or LIMITED EXPRESS trains.

There are several ways it can be used. One person can use it for any five days within the given time period… or multiple people can use the single ticket. Essentially there are five spaces on the ticket, and each space allows one person to ride for one day. So if two people used the ticket, there would be three spaces left over, etc.

If FIVE people use the ticket on a single day, then you’re looking at one darn cheap method of traveling long distance! Simply purchase the ticket, and make sure everyone stays together. As you go into the system, your ticket is stamped five times. So all five of you are set for the journey. As mentioned above, you will travel on local trains only – no bullet trains. The travel time is about 9 hours, not accounting for pit stops or meal stops. But here’s a good thing: with the Seishun 18 ticket, if you all stay together, you can exit the system at any station and return to the system on the same day – just show your stamped ticket. With this in mind, perhaps you can exit the system at a major train station – say for example, Odawara, Shizuoka, Hamamatsu, Toyohashi or Nagoya – and head into a restaurant within the station, or enjoy some treats within the floors of a Japanese department store.

This 2,300 yen plan also works for other long-haul trips such as Tokyo to Nagoya or Tokyo to Osaka. The ticket price of 11,500 yen, divided by five, equals 2,300 yen. Even if four or three were to take the trip, the trip breaks down to 2,875 yen or 3,830 yen per person respectively – which can very well be a TREMENDOUS savings compared to standard train prices, or even bus prices.

My motto when it comes to Japan travel: always research as much as possible about your trip. This way it will make your trip much more enjoyable when it happens – not to mention it MAY just be a little lighter on the wallet!

On the heels of my recent post on the Japan Rail Pass, I would like to share a tip with you that will make travel in major Japanese cities a little bit easier… not to mention a little more interesting.

Do you want to travel between cities but don’t feel like standing up to the crush of commuters every morning or evening? Granted, you’ll probably want to give a trip or two in a Yamanote Line sardine can, for example, a shot at some point. But what if you are carrying something with you, such as luggage? Or are you the type that prefers to be away from all of that hustle and bustle?

In certain instances, the solution is in your Japan Rail Pass. The pass permits you to use most any JR-operated train for the duration of your pass. This includes everything from commuter trains to the bullet train, as well as something that falls in between – the Limited Express, or tokkyu in Japanese. Limited Express trains generally operate over considerable distances, and operate for the most part on regular JR commuter lines.

In the case of Limited Express and Shinkansen (bullet) trains, your pass entitles you a free seat reservation in a reserved seat. But what it also entitles you to is, space permitting, a non-reserved seat. Limited Express and Shinkansen trains, with few exceptions, have a certain number of unreserved seats that can be used.

So how exactly do you use it? First you must determine what journey you will take, and if a limited express or bullet train can cover the trip. Next you must find out if the train offers non-reserved seating… train carriages will be marked “non-reserved” in english. Then, simply hop on board and let the train take you to your destination.

A good example of putting this to good use is on JR’s Kyoto to Osaka corridor. When trains seem to be at capacity and you want a good alternative, then you might want to consider taking a limited express service that operates frequently between the two cities… this includes the Thunderbird, Raicho and Haruka. Japan Railway’s english timetable pamphlets list the majority of the limited express trains in the country – Kansai included – and departure/arrival times. These limited express services generally arrive on separate platforms from the crowded commuter lines, and the chances are usually good that you will get a seat. Look up the time, go to the platform, look for the correct car, and hop on. When the conductor approaches, smile, show him your pass, and announce your intended destination.

Adding to these particular options – the bullet train between Kyoto and (Shin-)Osaka. Your rail pass allows you to take any of up to three hourly departures (2 Hikari trains and 1 Kodama), and each of these trains have unreserved seats.

It is also possible to make seat reservations in reserved cars for short journeys such as this… you can make such reservations at the “Midori-no-Madoguchi”, or Green Counter, at the major JR stations.

In Tokyo, you could utilize, for example, the Odoriko between Tokyo and Yokohama/Odawara, the Azusa/Kaiji from Shinjuku to Mitaka/Hachioji, or the bullet train between Tokyo, Ueno and Omiya. One interesting attempt was successfully completed by this writer… I was traveling from a hotel near Ueno Station all the way down to a hotel in Osaka. My train left in the morning, in the heart of the Tokyo rush hour. But in order to get to the bullet train that went to Osaka, I had to take a regular commuter train from Ueno to Tokyo… which would have been a pain with luggage PLUS all of those commuters.

Note that there are two separate bullet train lines that serve Tokyo: One goes south to Kyoto, Osaka and beyond,  while a separate system operates to the north.

So my solution? A little bit of exercise to walk down to the bullet train line serving Ueno station. I entered an unreserved car of a Tokyo-bound bullet train, and made a leisurely, low-speed journey to Tokyo station. No standing shoulder-to-shoulder with other commuters using the main lines… and upon reaching Tokyo station, it was a simple transfer through a small, dedicated gate to access the other bullet train that would bring me to Osaka.

With the Japan Rail Pass, some knowledge about the pass, and careful research and planning… new, exciting, convenient, and even unusual transit methods will open up to you.

If you intend to do a lot of traveling around Japan, then the Japan Rail Pass could very well be your best friend. A variety of Rail Passes are available, covering the entire country or just a few specific areas.

If you are going to restrict your travels to Tokyo and the surrounding area, then it probably won’t be worth it to purchase a rail pass of any sort; you’ll probably resort to regular tickets, day passes, etc. On the other hand, if you intend to travel out to several cities around Japan, then purchasing the national Japan Rail Pass may help you.

The national Japan Rail Pass is available in 7-day consecutive, 14-day and 21-day versions, and there are passes for ordinary class and green class (the equivalent to coach and first class respectively). If you are just planning to confine a bulk of your travels, however, to just a specific area, for example north of Tokyo to the Tohoku region, then you might want to consider something more specific – and likely cheaper – in this case, something like the JR East Rail Pass.

There’s one real litmus test to determine whether or not a national rail pass is right for you: Do you intend to travel a lot on the bullet train? If you intend to travel, for example, from Tokyo to Kyoto, the regular ticket price is 26,440 yen round trip on the bullet train service known as the Hikari. The 7-day Japan Rail Pass is 28,300 yen… so if you consider the round trip between Tokyo and Kyoto, local trips around Tokyo and the Kansai region by JR, and a round-trip on a JR train service to and from the airport (Tokyo to Narita Airport on the Narita Express, or if you are in Kyoto or Osaka, a round-trip to Kansai Airport on the Haruka train) then the cost of travel will exceed the cost of the pass, making it a good value.

Of course, the more you travel in a specific period, the more you can likely save. One good way to figure out the cost savings is to do some research… Go to a site like Hyperdia which allows you to find out the cost of train travel between two major cities (and train times, which helps too). Add those numbers up at the end to see what you get.

I highly recommend, only if your budget allows, the Green Car rail pass. First class cars, especially on the bullet trains, are particularly nice… you get wider, more comfortable seats, more recline, a reading light, hot towel service at your seat, and if you have headphones you can plug in and listen to six channels of music. (Granted that everything will be in Japanese, but hey, it’s at least something that will help pass the time as you whiz by the countryside)

One drawback about the rail pass is that you cannot use the Nozomi, the premium bullet train service that’s in operation. Nozomi operates on the Tokaido and San’yo Shinkansen; so if you use any of these you’ll be forced to use a Hikari or Kodama train. Out of these, Hikari is the fastest; Kodama on the other hand stops at every single station along the way. For a trip between Tokyo and Osaka for example, Kodama trains will add one hour to your travel time (a 4 hour trip instead of 3 hours on the Hikari).

You must purchase a travel voucher within your country for a national Japan Rail Pass, and then exchange the voucher for a rail pass upon arrival in Japan. Rail Pass counters in Japan can be found at Narita and Kansai Airports; you are also able to obtain your rail pass at JR’s major train stations. If you intend to use a JR train to travel into the city, you may want to do the exchange at the airport. If you are in Tokyo and you don’t get your rail pass at Narita Airport, an excellent location to obtain your pass is at Tokyo Station. Tokyo Station – large as it may be – has a dedicated Rail Pass exchange counter. The english-speaking staff is friendly and is willing to help you out. This counter is located towards the Yaesu side – the east side – of Tokyo Station.

If you live in the US, Kintetsu International allows you to purchase your Rail Pass voucher online; it will be delivered to you by regular mail.

Hopefully in my next post I will offer a little secret that will allow you, with your national Rail Pass, to use some trains to your advantage – while allowing you to skip rush hour crowds.

Congratulations! If you’ve made it past the hustle and bustle of Narita Airport – not to mention all of the formalities – then welcome yourself to perhaps one of the most unique cities on Earth, not to mention the 11th most populated on earth: Tokyo. Once you’ve settled in to your hotel, it’s time to head on out and travel around the city to the places that you have marked on your to-do list.

Japan is renowned for it’s transportation system, and Tokyo is certainly no exception. Among the many elevated and underground train lines that criss-cross the center of the city like strands of spaghetti is a very important line – one that you should consider using frequently during your visit around Tokyo, especially the first. That line is the Yamanote Line, Tokyo’s loop line operated by Japan Railways (JR). The Yamanote Line makes a circle and stops at a total of 29 stations – all of which are important areas of the city.

Trains on the Yamanote run in both directions, and for the most part run continuously without terminating until late at night. The trains are the outer (clockwise) loop are classified as sotomawari, and inner (counter-clockwise) loop trains are known as uchimawari. A complete circuit of the Yamanote takes about one hour, but in general you should not have to travel more than 30 minutes or so to get to your destination (simply travel in one direction or the other).

The Yamanote Line is so important to Tokyo, that about 3,550,000 people use it every day – making the Yamanote Line the world’s busiest. All but two stations (Shin-Okubo and Mejiro) provide a connection to another JR Line, subway line, or private line. An American author who wrote about his visits to Japan put it thus: “When the Yamanote Line stops, Tokyo stops.”

Remember, since the Yamanote Line is operated by JR, access to the line is free if you have a valid Japan Rail Pass or JR East Rail Pass. 

As with other metropolitan areas, it’s best to avoid the rush hour when the Yamanote Line trains become standing room only… in fact, two of the train’s 11 cars have seats that fold up to permit more passengers on board. Travel during the afternoon rush is just a little lighter but still very crowded.

Trains are easily recognizable by their green color, and there are automated station announcements in both Japanese and English.

The Yamanote’s major stations include: Tokyo, Shinagawa, Shibuya, Harajuku, Shinjuku, Ikebukuro, Nippori, Ueno and Akihabara.

To travel around Tokyo easily and quickly, the Yamanote Line is usually your best bet. However, if you’re a little more advanced, there are two other JR-operated train lines that bisect the Yamanote Line Loop: The Chuo Line Rapid is the fastest, cutting across the loop between Tokyo and Shinjuku in about 15 minutes compared to 30 on the Yamanote. The slower Chuo Line local runs a little less frequently than the Yamanote Line and bisects the loop between Akihabara and Shinjuku in 17 minutes compared to the Yamanote’s 25.

NOTE: The Skyliner service has been updated since this was written. Please read How to tackle Narita Airport’s New Train Service.

In this post I will describe the two competing train services that operate between Narita Airport and the heart of Tokyo – East Japan Railway’s Narita Express and Keisei Railway’s Skyliner – as well as their counterpart services.

As I have mentioned indirectly in previous posts, choosing your method of transportation really depends on your budget and your destination. I hope I will provide enough information here so that you can make an informed decision yourself.

I will start with East Japan Railway’s Narita Express. This service operates from Narita Airport to major stations in Tokyo, including: Tokyo Station, Shinagawa, Shinjuku and Ikebukuro. Services also run frequently to Yokohama and further into Kanagawa prefecture. A few trains run north to Omiya in Saitama and to Hachioji and Takao in western Tokyo.

Pros: The Narita Express is a smoke-free, all reserved train. You have the option of choosing between standard class and the green car (first class). There are also first class compartment for parties of up to four people. The train stops at all of the major train stations in Tokyo, where transfers to other railway lines are possible, including Tokyo and Shinagawa which both offer access to the shinkansen (bullet train) lines. The Narita Express is also the only reserved train that runs from Narita Airport to Yokohama. Holders of the Japan Rail Pass or JR East Rail Pass may make seat reservations for the Narita Express at no additional charge. Seat reservations in English are accepted on the JR East website; it is possible to reserve your seat on your return journey to Narita Airport up to one month in advance. Combo tickets called “Suica & N’Ex” are sold to foreigners, offering a one-way discounted trip on the Narita Express plus unlimited usage of JR lines within the Tokyo area until reaching your final destination. Trains reach Tokyo Station in about one hour.

Cons: The Narita Express is the most expensive train service operating from Narita Airport, with standard class seats each way to/from Tokyo going for 3000 yen; green car seats go for about 4500 yen. At Tokyo Station, the Narita Express arrives on underground platforms, which means you will have to ascend four floors to street level by way of escalators or elevators.

Alternative: The JR East alternative to the Narita Express is regular rapid service, which leaves only once per hour on average (Keisei’s commuter trains depart more frequently). The fare for the Rapid is 1280 yen but the trip to Tokyo Station takes about 90 minutes. As the train is a commuter service, it can get crowded on the way to Tokyo. On the other hand, the train provides connections to other destinations in and near Tokyo – for example, Funabashi provides a transfer to the Tobu Noda Line for Saitama, Kinshicho provides a transfer to the Sobu Line Local to Akihabara, and most rapid trains from Narita Airport provide a one-seat ride all the way out to  historic Kamakura (2 1/2 hours).

Keisei Railway’s airport service is called the Skyliner. This service operates from Narita Airport over Keisei’s entire main line, terminating at Ueno Station in Tokyo with a stop at Nippori. Most trains also call at Funabashi.

Pros: The Skyliner is cheaper than the Narita Express, with a one-way ride costing 1920 yen between the airport and Nippori/Ueno. All seats are reserved. A connection is provided at Nippori station for the JR Yamanote Line, which loops Tokyo. The ride into the Tokyo area is faster than the Narita Express, with services taking about 50 minutes to make the entire journey. Combo tickets are sold to foreigners which include a one-way trip on the Skyliner and a one or two day unlimited ride pass for the Tokyo Metro subway. In late 2010, Skyliners will transfer to the Narita Rapid Railway and offer a 36 minute travel time between the Airport and Nippori station.

Cons: Many have said that the transfers at Nippori station between the Skyliner and the Yamanote Line are different, especially if carrying luggage – although new platforms are being built at Nippori which will provide for an easier transfer. The terminating station for the Skyliner at Ueno is a long walk away from the main Ueno station, where the JR lines and a couple of subway lines are available. Two of the cars on the train still permit smoking.

Alternative: Regular Keisei commuter trains, most classified as “Limited Express”, run every 20 minutes from Narita Airport to Ueno. Trains take 80-90 minutes, but at a low cost of only 1000 yen to Nippori/Ueno, this is the cheapest service out of Narita Airport. There are more stops, and the train might get crowded as you proceed on the journey – more so than on the JR line. On my second trip to Japan, I noticed one train depart where nearly all of the seats were taken by the budget-conscious passengers. An excellent transfer station is at Aoto – simply wait a few moments across the platform at Aoto, and trains that run through to the Asakusa line will take you to historic Asakusa, Nihombashi and Ginza.

Last caveats: Again the decisions are totally yours, and you might have to choose one specific service based on your needs. On my first trip to Japan, I stayed at the Tokyo Station hotel, so I took the Narita Express. On the second trip I went to a hotel near Ueno station, so I used the Skyliner. In general, if you want convenience, use the Narita Express since it stops at major stations. If you are on a budget, consider the Skyliner – even consider the regular Keisei commuter train, bearing the transfer to the Yamanote Line if your travel plan calls for it. A pricing comparison: A journey on the Narita Express from the airport to Shinjuku takes 85 minutes and costs 3300 yen at the normal fare. By comparison, a trip on two trains – the Keisei Limited Express to Nippori, then the JR Yamanote Line to Shinjuku – takes nearly the same amount of time, but costs only 1190 yen.

I should point out that both the Narita Express and Skyliner provide ample storage space for luggage, and provide recorded announcements in English. Both are scheduled to upgrade their train equipment with a fresh look: The Narita Express starting this fall, and the Skyliner by the time the new rapid railway opens in 2010.

Updated information about arrival procedures in Japan (November 2014) can be found in this article.

So you’ve finally touched down in Tokyo. And that means, under most circumstances, that you have landed at Narita Airport. You know what that means… that means you’ve got a long way to travel from the airport to the Japanese capital.

Narita International Airport is located in the city of Narita, in Chiba prefecture… a good 45 miles or so to the east of Tokyo. It is the international hub for Japan’s two major airlines – All Nippon and Japan Airlines – and is also a hub airport for Delta Air Lines.

Built on farm land, it is also an airport with some controversy attached to it. The construction of the airport was met with demonstrations and protests from members of the Japanese population, especially those that were forced out by eminent domain from the fields where they lived and worked.

Nevertheless, Narita Airport was opened in 1978 to relieve the pressure of international traffic from Haneda Airport, which is much closer to the Tokyo metropolis. There are now plans to bring some of that international traffic back to Haneda, but for the most part, if you’re landing in Tokyo, you’ll be ending up at Narita. And thanks to the protests from the days of construction, you’ll be entering an airport with an unprecedented level of security.

As you leave your pressurized metal tube from which you’ve been agonizing for hours on end (also known as an airplane), you’ll be processed through Immigration and Customs. You’ll need your passport ready… oh, and please don’t ask me any more questions about passports.

While on the plane you will receive two forms – one form for immigration, and one form for customs. Both need to be filled out and presented to the respective authorities during your ground processing. Travelers from certain countries must also fill out a quarantine form as well. In early 2009 during the H1N1 flu pandemic, travelers from North America were mandated to fill out and submit quarantine forms – but this restriction has long been lifted.

First question to ask yourself when you exit the plane: How do you feel? Besides being jet-lagged, that is. If for some reason you don’t feel right, you can step into a Health Consultation room and speak to a doctor prior to passing through immigration.

Next comes the (usually) long line for immigration. During the immigration process, you will hand over your passport, your immigration form, and any other necessary paperwork. The immigration officials will then do a fingerprint scan on both of your index fingers, and take your picture. Once you have cleared immigration, it’s down the stairs to collect your luggage.

Near the luggage carousels are the animal quarantine and plant quarantine counters. If you are bringing – you guessed it – animals and/or plants, you’ll need to go to these counters before going through Customs.

There are two customs “channels”. The GREEN CHANNEL is for items that do not have to be declared, while the RED CHANNEL is to be used if you do have to declare an item in your possession, or if you are unsure. A customs agent will take your customs form and ask you some questions before sending you on your way.

Now I suggest that you do two things:

1) If you did not do a currency exchange of your cash on hand prior to your flight, now is the time to do it. There are Citibank ATM Machines located in the airport lobby from which you can withdraw some yen from your bank account. And since Japan is mostly cash-based, it’d be wise to take out a considerable amount.

2) If you are leaving the airport with heavy luggage, ask yourself if you really want to carry all of those bags with you. After all, under most circumstances the Japanese travel light. Fortunately there is one good way that will allow you to enter this Japanese mindset – head to the Luggage Delivery Service counters.

A luggage delivery service – called “takkyubin” in Japanese – will take any bags that you throw at them… well, you get the idea… and they in turn will deliver to nearly any location in Japan – house, business, hotel, etc – by the next business day. (Destinations that are very far away will take two days.) What’s more, it’s at an effective price that won’t burn much of a hole in your wallet, if any.

I brought three bags to Japan – a large suitcase, medium suitcase and my laptop bag. When traveling to/from the airport, or traveling long distances, I have used luggage delivery service on my largest bag and it has proven to be of great convenience to me.

Prices for luggage delivery are determined by both the weight and the total length, width and height of your bag. The largest size that is accepted is a total of 160 centimeters and a weight of 25 kilograms (63 inches and 55 pounds, if you’re not metrically-inclined).

I paid the “140 size” rate for my large bag – maximum dimensions of 140 centimeters around, with a weight of up to 20 kilograms – and my cost was just 1600 yen for every time that I used the service – whether it was for a short jaunt from the airport to Tokyo, or for a long-distance trip between Tokyo and Osaka.

Note two things: You’ll need to check ahead to each location that you’re staying at to see if they accept luggage delivery and if they can hold your luggage for you when it arrives. Second, you can use the luggage delivery service to send your bag back to the airport, but a surcharge is added and you have to send your bag two days prior to your flight.

But consider this: You can send a 160 size bag from Tokyo to Osaka overnight for 1600 yen. By comparison, if you were to use a major American shipping carrier to send something of the same size and weight overnight from New York, NY to Rochester, NY – about the same distance as it is from Tokyo to Osaka – the cost would be about $240. Isn’t it worth it?

Ok! You have yen. And you’ve used some of it to send your bags. And now it’s time to go to Tokyo… but how?

You basically have three transit options, if someone is not around to pick you up: TAXI, BUS, TRAIN.

TAXI: This only works if you’re willing to spend the amount of a few night’s stay in the average Tokyo hotel just on your taxi ride from the Airport. If traveling with a group, this will cut the per-person cost down… Flat-fare cabs at a reduced rate to certain Tokyo landmarks are available as well. Hey, you can’t beat door to door service, but if you’re not a rich person, it’s best to look at the other two options.

BUS: A bus is a great way to travel from the airport to Tokyo. The company that runs the bus service is called “Airport Limousine Bus“, and they can be distinguished by their buses in white and orange colors. They provide direct services to major hotels and transit hubs in Tokyo. Service is regular with many departures every hour to different destinations, although your particular destination may be served once an hour or so.

One destination that is served on a regular basis – every 10 minutes or so – is T-CAT, or Tokyo City Air Terminal. This is located in Hakozaki, in Tokyo’s Chuo Ward. At a price of 2900 yen per person (half fare for children), the bus promises a 55 minute bus ride. T-CAT is connected to the Tokyo Subway, which can be used to get to your destination.

Buses to major hotels cost 3000 yen (half fare for children), but are timed to take anywhere from 90-120 minutes to make the journey. While the door to door service is an advantage, the drawback that you may get snarled in traffic jams along the way.

TRAIN: The final way to travel from the airport to Tokyo, and the method that I’ve been using every time. Unfortunately it’s also something that I will have to discuss in another article.

But in brief: Two railroads offer competing services: Japan Railways and the private Keisei Railway.

The Japan Railways Narita Express offers direct service to Tokyo Station and other major stations in Tokyo, such as Shinagawa, Shinjuku and Ikebukuro. Service to nearby Yokohama is also provided. The Narita Express can be used with a Japan Rail Pass.

Keisei’s premium service is called the Skyliner. The Skyliner is cheaper, and runs into two stations in Tokyo: Nippori and Ueno.

Both the Narita Express and Skyliner require seat reservations. In additon, both railways operate cheaper commuter trains that are slower but at a greatly reduced cost.

In all instances, trains will allow you to bypass all of the traffic jams that you might run into when taking a bus. On the other hand, you may have to do some more navigating on other train lines to get to your destination in Tokyo.

I’ll spell out the train options from Narita Airport in my next posting.

Thanks for reading… I appreciate the comments that I’ve received from those reading. If you would like me to address something pertaining to Japanese travel in a future post, please let me know!

An important decision that you will have to make when it comes to visiting Japan is whether or not it will be better for you to take a guided tour for the amount of days that you will be in Japan, or if you want to discover the sights and sounds of the country at your own pace, on your own schedule.

If you are interested in guided tours – those that provide tours in English for most of your trip – the company to turn to is JTB. The largest travel agency in Japan and one of the largest in the world, JTB caters to Japanese natives and non-natives alike. They provide everything from short tours (half-day, full day, two or three days) to completely escorted (from airport to airport). One of their most popular completely escorted tours is the 6-day Scenic Japan course, which starts from 133,900 yen per person double occupancy. The tour focuses on Tokyo and Kyoto with a stop near Mount Fuji, Hakone and Nara along the way. Round-trip transfers to and from Narita Airport, round-trip bullet train transportation between Tokyo and Kyoto, hotel accomodations and guided tours are all included in the price, along with two lunches during the trip. JTB also offers tours based in Tokyo if you plan on staying only 4 days (from 61500 yen per person double occupancy), all the way up to the 14 day grand tour (from 382,000 yen per person double occupancy) which includes stops in Tokyo, Kamakura, Nikko, Mount Fuji, Hakone, Nagoya, Toba, Ise, Kyoto, Nara, Takayama, Shirakawago and Kanazawa. (phew!)

Obviously, the fact that your itinerary is planned for you – and you have no worries about it – is the good news.

Other tour companies, both public and private, offer a different range of tours. Private tours however tend to be on the more expensive side.

On the other hand, you could try what I’ve done on both of my trips to Japan – and that is to set your own itinerary. This allows for a lot of flexibility – you set your own rules, you choose your own hotels, and you choose your own destinations. This is good if you are looking to go to a certain destination that is not served by a tour, or if you are looking to meet up with people. The way I set up my itinerary is to figure out the places that I want to see, take into account the time that I have in the country, and make a schedule. As I make the schedule, I do research to find out what’s happening on that particular day. For example, on my second trip I found out that a shrine in Kotohira was going to begin its annual festival, so I made provisions to go to that shrine on the festival’s first day to watch the afternoon shrine maiden’s dance. (You can watch what I saw by viewing Episode 13 of my “Jose in Japan” video series.)

No matter what path you take, you will run into the problem of expenses. Guided tours are all-inclusive, with the longer tours including train and hotel accomodations, as well as round-trip airport transfers. When you’re on your own, you pay a-la-carte. The way to figure out what’s right for you is to do a side-by-side comparison of the tours, and their prices, compared to what you want to do, and how much it will cost you. You will want to figure in an allowance for meals and souvenirs in both cases.

If you are by yourself, tour companies like JTB charge single supplements for tours requiring overnight stays – which is one reason that you might want to set your own plans if you plan to travel solo.

If you are on your own, and you’ll be doing a lot of traveling, then you might want to consider a Japan Rail Pass, which is sold to foreigners and includes unlimited train travel on nearly all trains operated by Japanese Railways (JR) for a certain number of consecutive days. A 7-day ordinary pass (equivalent to tourist class) costs 28300 yen. But if I was you, and if I had the extra money to splurge, I would go for the Green Car (first class) pass. The seats are wider and more comfortable, and on the bullet train journeys you’ll get hot-towel service and several channels of audio at your seat (you need to bring your own headphones with a single jack, or buy some on board). Perfect listening to pass the time as you whiz along. (Granted, most of the audio will be in Japanese)

If you do plan to stay to your own schedule, you MIGHT want to figure in the shorter half-day or full-day JTB tours anyway. Some of the JTB tours offer trips to places that most foreigners don’t know about, or are hard for tourists to secure tickets to. One obvious example – JTB might be the only way for a tourist like you to EASILY secure lucrative seats to a Sumo wrestling tournament – which are held in Tokyo three times a year – or to go to conventions like the World Cosplay Summit. JTB, and another private tour guide – Peter MacIntosh of Kyoto Sights and Nights – offer tours in Kyoto that will allow you to meet actual Geisha and Maiko (apprentice Geisha). (Click here to watch one of the hosts of the Australian travel show “The Great Outdoors” dine and drink with Peter and the Geisha)

Finally it doesn’t hurt to make friends with actual Japanese people, or know some friends that have actually traveled to Japan, or have even lived there. Their suggestions for places to visit and dine – places that only they themselves know – will always be your best bet.

As you may know, Japan is certainly one of the most expensive places on this planet. In fact, when it comes to long-term accommodations, two of Japan’s major cities – Tokyo and Osaka – rank as the top two most expensive cities in the world to live in. One of the reasons as of late… the value of the Japanese currency, which at present is strong in comparison to the American dollar (95 yen to the dollar as of this writing). 

Accommodations don’t necessarily have to take a huge toll on your wallet though. If you’re willing to do some careful research, and in some circumstances a few sacrifices, you can find good deals on accommodations during your trip to Japan. 

You may or may not be familiar with the classifications of Japanese lodging. I’ll try to break most of them down into the following: LOW, MEDIUM, HIGH.

The determination of Low, Medium or High is based on an average between price and available amenities. Sounds easy, right? Well unfortunately I feel that there are some accommodations that don’t fit into these categories. Anyway, let us proceed.

LOW: Falling into this category are the Hostels, which are no frills, budget-minded accommodations. You generally share a room with other travelers (or get your own room for an extra charge). All facilities are shared, including kitchen, toilet and shower. There is an excellent opportunity to socialize with other travelers, but on the other hand the amount of privacy is minimal and you have to watch your personal belongings. Sleeping could also pose a problem if one or more travelers in your room snores, makes noise, etc. Despite the fact that Japan is an expensive country, inexpensive lodging does exist in this form. How cheap are hostels in Japan? At my last check, the price for one person in a shared dorm room averaged around 3500 yen within Tokyo, and as low as 1800 yen in the Tokyo suburbs.

I am also going to list the infamous coffin hotel… er, I mean, capsule hotel, in the low category. Capsule hotels were originally designed as a quick accommodation choice for Japanese salarymen who have missed their final train home, or are too tired to go back, or are drunk from drinking after work, etc. These days, though, anyone can pretty much use them. Simply put, capsule hotels provide room to sleep… all enclosed into a space that measures about 6’6″ x 4’3″ x 5′ on average. Capsules are stacked next to and on top of each other, so to get to any upper-level capsules you will have to climb a small ladder. Again, toilets and showers are shared among all guests.

One capsule hotel that prominently advertises to foreigners is the Capsule Inn Akihabara, located in Tokyo’s famous electronics district. Their rates are 4000 yen per night, and people of both sexes can stay there, though they are kept on separate floors. Each of their rooms provides a television, radio, alarm clock and wireless internet. Of course the price at other capsule hotels may vary depending on location, amenities, etc.

MEDIUM: In this category are the Business Hotels, which are named for the reason that you’d expect… once again, tailored to businessmen who are away from home or working late. But you’re pretty much assured of your own room, and in nearly all cases, your own toilet and shower as well. Some business hotels are offering improved or renovated accommodations as of late, with flat screen televisions and plush duvets.

The big plus when it comes to business hotels is that they are conveniently located to major travel or transit areas, such as a highway interchange, rail hub or subway stop. Also, there are likely to be vending machines on the hotel premises that you can access at any time. On the downside, however, rooms and beds tend to be on the small side. The bathrooms may also be configured in interesting combinations – for example, it could be in a small pre-fabricated stall with limited room for mobility, or it could be completely out in the open with a sliding wooden door or opaque glass providing privacy from anyone else that you may be staying with. Another factor for most business hotels, which may or may not be positive, is what is known as pre-payment. In other words you must pay for your entire stay upon checking in to the hotel. Any other charges that you incur in the room will be paid for at the end of your stay… although for a business hotel it won’t be much.

I’ve stayed at a nice business hotel in the Taito district of Tokyo, near Ueno station, for about 8,000 yen per night, including free continental breakfast every morning. I would say 8,000 yen is the average price range for a business hotel within major cities. As you go away from these cities, you can expect to pay less. Also, for multiple night stays you may be required to vacate your room between the hotel’s check-out and check-in times… although this shouldn’t be a problem since you’ll be out and about exploring Japan anyway.

Something else falls into the medium category… seedier, possibly, but still an option for a man and a woman traveling together. Those would be the Love Hotels. Yes, you’re correct again… Love Hotels are for couples to get together away from public life or life in the house. The exteriors can look either plain or garish, and entrances can sometimes be hard to find – which is exactly what users tend to look for in order to be discreet. Love Hotels have two options: REST, for a “quick encounter” of about 2 hours or so, and STAY, which is for one night’s worth of accommodations. There is virtually no interaction with anyone else… as you go in, a picture wall shows you which rooms are available. Press the button, and the room is reserved. Payment is made either through an automatic payment machine, or by handing your yen over to a person that sits on the other side of a two-way glass. Some love hotels have rooms with more, ahem… ‘unique’ amenities, and therefore cost more.

HIGH: What you and I might call a “standard hotel” here in the states equates to a luxury standard when you’re in Japan. And trust me, if you have the money, the curiosity, and the urge to discover, look no further than these gems.

For starters, the price. Minimum: Around 12000 yen, if you look carefully. Maximum: The sky’s the limit.

Paying the high cost for a luxury hotel will, in nearly all cases, yield bigger rooms, good views out of your room, and more English-speaking staff to help you if you’re in a bind. There can also be a wide number of restaurants available on the premises, with cuisine offerings from the entire global spectrum.

Some of these hotels are also the easiest hotels that can be accessed – for example, through a direct connection to a train station (or a very short walk away), or through direct bus services to and from the major airports.

Of course, the downside is that you have to fork over a lot of yen, or charge your credit card up so much that you’ll get electrocuted when you get your bill at the end of the month. There are ways, however, to ease up the financial burden – if you really want to experience these types of accommodations.

Prince Hotels is one of Japan’s best-known luxury hotel brands. A service that is offered to foreign travelers is the Prince Club International program. There is no fee to apply, your membership lasts for your entire life, and the program entitles you to discounts and specials on Prince Hotel resorts throughout the country. I used the program on both of my trips to Japan, and saved a lot of money to get first-class accommodations; during my 2008 stay at the Shinagawa Prince Hotel (the largest hotel complex in Japan), the savings amounted to nearly 50 percent – oh, and a luxurious buffet breakfast was included every day!

Unfortunately there are some accommodation types that I cannot classify into Low, Medium or High because their accommodation prices vary greatly based on size, location and amenities. They are:

Ryokan: A traditional Japanese inn which allows you to experience Japanese hospitality in the truest sense of the word. Some inns are antique wooden houses cared for by family members whose ancestors before them had taken care of the very same place. Others are much larger hotels near major resorts or natural landmarks.  But the premise is the same; the room has tatami mats on which you both walk and sleep (a futon is rolled out for you at night). Meals are served either in your room or in the ryokan’s restaurant, and you’re given traditional Japanese clothes called Yukata to wear in and around the complex. These ryokans tend to be expensive, with the more traditional and more historical buildings costing the most.

There are some ryokans, however, that operate much like regular business hotels. You get to sleep on the floor with a futon, but there is no meal service, and you may have to pull out and store the futon yourself. Don’t worry, because the owners and staff provide the same hospitality, and may even go out of their way to suggest some places or restaurants that you can visit in the area. The pricing of these ryokans tend to be around the same as the business hotel prices described above. A variation of this type of ryokan, found in more rural areas, is called a minshuku.

Finally, one very interesting accommodation type that I know a few friends of mine want to try out is called shukubo, otherwise known as accommodations at a Buddhist Temple. These are usually out in the countryside or suburbs and offer you the chance to join in morning prayers at a Buddhist temple and savor in fine vegetarian cuisine. An excellent place to find shukubo is on Mount Koya, which is located south of Osaka.

A few last caveats: I highly recommend any hotel operated by Renaissance Hotel Group. They only have five hotels – three in Tokyo, one in Osaka and one in Fukuoka (in southern Japan), but if it’s anything like what I experienced at the Sutton Place Hotel Ueno in 2008, then I’m sure that they’re all good. They are a group of budget hotels that I would really classify as “upscale business”… Toyoko Inn is a very popular brand of business hotel operating throughout Japan, with over 200 convenient locations. Be sure to check out the Toyoko Hotels that have just opened; rates for new hotels will be at a discount compared to the already reasonable tariffs… Japan Rail Pass holders get discounts on business and luxury hotels operated by Japan Railways… Rakuten Travel is an excellent place to search for all types of Japanese hotels, and you can easily sort your search results by price.