Tokyo to Kyoto for only 2,300 Yen!?

For more up-to-date information, please read the September 2014 post Tokyo to Kyoto for $21… and other cheap ways to transit Japan

I’d like to take an opportunity to thank those of you who are reading my blog. I’m happy to share my thoughts about Japan travel and assist people in any way that I can!

My most popular post on this blog is how to travel from Tokyo to Kyoto for just 2,300 yen. That post was written back in 2009, so I think it’s time for me to update this information to reflect current events.

Without question, Tokyo and Kyoto are THE two destinations that should be included if you are intent on visiting Japan for the very first time. Of course, Tokyo and Kyoto are separated by some 231 miles (372 km) if you were to draw a straight line.

Between Tokyo and Kyoto, the two major methods of public transportation are the train and the highway bus. (You might also add air, if continuing to Osaka, but this article will focus on the first two methods of transit.)

So how much will you pay for a ride between Tokyo and Kyoto? This article breaks down the various bus and train options by price.

Obviously if you have a Japan Rail Pass then this question is moot; simply use your rail pass (Hikari or Kodama only) to make the journey.

But if you do not have a Japan Rail Pass, then you’ll want to examine the prices carefully to see what fits your budget. Note that the prices listed here are rounded to the nearest 100 yen, and are subject to change, including a variance of a few hundred yen either way depending on the time of the year.

18,200 yen: For this price you will get a reserved first-class seat (called the “Green Car”) in the premium Nozomi service. You may expect to be personally greeted by a Green Car attendant as you enter the train, and the attendant will check your ticket. Hot towel service is provided and you can order food and drinks on board. The seats are wide and comfortable, and the lighting is noticeably softer than in the other seating areas.

13,300 yen: For this price you will get a reserved standard-class seat in the premium Nozomi service. You sit in the standard bullet train seats, and food and drinks are sold on board. In these first two instances the travel time from Tokyo to Kyoto is 2 hours, 20 minutes.

Running about 500 or 600 yen cheaper than the above prices are the respective surcharges for travel on the Hikari and Kodama services, which are slower than the premium Nozomi because they make more stops. In the Hikari service, hot towel service is provided in the Green Car, but you are not “greeted” as you board. There is no “greeting” or hot towel service in Kodama trains, and as of 2013, there is no food or drink service on board Kodamas either. Hikari trains make the run to Kyoto in 2 hours, 45 minutes; Kodamas, which stop at EVERY station, take 3 hours, 45 minutes.

My recommendation if you’re purchasing tickets “a la carte” is to spend the extra 500-600 yen and take the Nozomi. There are more Nozomi trains than the others and it is the fastest way to get from Tokyo to Kyoto. Fall back only to the Hikari (and worst case, Kodama) if the Nozomi sells out.

9,800 yen: You can make a cheap trip aboard the bullet train at this price, but it is strange why it’s only marketed to Japanese travelers. I haven’t tried this, but I have read reports of other foreign travelers that have used this method successfully. For 9,800 yen you can purchase a “Puratto Kodama Ticket”, which is a discounted one-way ticket on the Kodama (the slowest bullet train service). You must make a reservation at least one day in advance at a JR Tours office located at a station served by the Shinkansen, i.e. Tokyo or Shinagawa in Tokyo, or at Kyoto station. The JR Tours office is operated by JR Central, and is recognizable by their orange colors. As a bonus, when you purchase this ticket you are entitled to one free drink – since food and drinks are no longer sold on board Kodama services, you pick one up at the train station before getting on. The “Puratto Kodama Ticket” is also available in the Green Car for 11,300 yen. The prices go up during times of high demand. If you get stumped, you can visit the website for the Puratto Kodama Ticket (http://www.jrtours.co.jp/kodama/), print the page and show it when you want to purchase your ticket.

8,000 yen: At this price you can make a journey on local JR trains from Tokyo to Kyoto, via the Tokaido Main Line.  You will be sitting in regular commuter trains and will have to change trains frequently along the way. On the other hand you’ll be passing through the rural and urban Japanese landscape, getting a better and closer look at areas that the bullet train will just whiz through. Connection times can range anywhere from 2 to 20 minutes for each train that you take. The travel time is approximately nine hours – but that doesn’t figure in the time that you might need for pit stops or a meal.

Extra Tip (Added 6/9/13): As pointed out on the Rocketnews blog, regular tickets allow you to hop on and off as many times as you like within a certain time period, as long as your ticketed journey is at least 200 kilometers. If your journey is between 200 and 400 kilometers you can complete your trip in a two-day period. You gain an extra day of travel for every additional 200 kilometers. Since the route from Tokyo to Kyoto via the Tokaido Line is 513.6 kilometers, you have up to three days to make the journey… you’ll have to stop along the way once or twice to rest (Nagoya makes a nice destination for a few nights) but if you factor only the trains this will make the travel cost 2,660 yen per day.

7,000 yen: For this price you can travel overnight between Tokyo and Kyoto by bus. There are many bus operators between Tokyo and Kyoto, and JR is one of them – bus tickets can be reserved at several channels, including green ticket windows at major JR train stations. On their “Dream” service, which is their standard overnight bus service, you are entitled to a comfortable reclining seat with head and foot rests on a double-decker bus that is configured in a 1 x 1 x 1 configuration; in other words you will have no other passengers directly next to you – you’ll either have an aisle or window. There are also blankets and slippers at your seat, and a toilet is on the first floor of the bus. The price is valid for weekday travel; add about 1,000 yen or so for weekend or holiday travel. An advance purchase of 5 days lobs 1,000 yen OFF of the price. Travel time is 7 1/2 hours from Tokyo Station; buses also run from Shinjuku Station on a different route, taking eight hours. A bus also operates from Tokyo Station restricted to female travelers.

6,000 yen: At this price you can use the same buses described above for a DAYTIME journey between Tokyo and Kyoto. The trip takes eight hours and the bus makes several stops along the way, including a few stops at service areas. There is a discount of 1,000 yen for a 5-day advance purchase. The price does not change depending on the day of the week or whether or not it’s a holiday.

5,000 yen: This is the price for a bus trip from Tokyo to Kyoto on the “Seishun Dream”, translated as “Youth Dream”. It is discounted because it offers less amenities than the regular bus service. Seats are configured 2×2, just like you’d find on a North American Greyhound bus. Seats offer recline, and there is a toilet on board. Regardless of time of day or holiday, the price is 5,000 yen with a 500 yen discount for a 5-day advance purchase. Travel times are similar to the other bus services.

2,300 yen: At last, the price tag of 2,300 yen. Is it possible to travel from Tokyo to Kyoto at such a low price?? Indeed, it IS possible, but as the old saying goes, “Certain restrictions apply.”

The rules are as follows: First, you must travel to and within Japan during one of the country’s three designated school holiday periods: March 1 – April 10, July 20 – September 10, and December 10 – January 20.

Secondly, you must travel with four other people… either four of your friends who want to go to Japan, or four Japanese friends, etc… finding the four people to go with you is your choice, and of course, your responsibility.

Finally, one person must purchase a ticket sold DURING the school holiday periods, called the “Seishun 18 Ticket”. This ticket sells for 11,500 yen and allows for unlimited travel on JR’s LOCAL TRAINS only: NO BULLET TRAINS!

The Seishun 18 Ticket essentially has five “SPACES” that can be used. Each space is good for one person on one day. So one person could use it for five separate days within the validity of the ticket. Or two people could use it together for two days, etc.

Indeed, FIVE people can use the seishun 18 ticket on a single day, as long as travel is completed by 12 midnight. What a cheap way to travel! Simply purchase the ticket, and make sure everyone stays together. As you go into the system, your ticket is stamped five times. So all five of you are set for the journey.

As mentioned above, you will travel on local trains only – no bullet trains. The travel time is about 9 hours, not accounting for pit stops or meal stops. But here’s a good thing: with the Seishun 18 ticket, if you all stay together, you can exit the system at any station and return to the system on the same day – just show your stamped ticket. With this in mind, perhaps you can exit the system at a major train station – say for example, Odawara, Shizuoka, Hamamatsu, Toyohashi or Nagoya – and head into a restaurant within the station, or enjoy some treats within the floors of a Japanese department store.

This 2,300 yen plan also works for other long-haul trips such as Tokyo to Nagoya or Tokyo to Osaka. The ticket price of 11,500 yen, divided by five, equals 2,300 yen. Even if four or three were to take the trip, the trip breaks down to 2,875 yen or 3,830 yen per person respectively – which can very well be a TREMENDOUS savings compared to standard train prices, or even bus prices.

My motto when it comes to Japan travel: always research as much as possible about your trip. This way it will make your trip much more enjoyable when it happens – not to mention it MAY just be a little lighter on the wallet!

With that, here is an idea that someone could use to travel from Tokyo to Kyoto by local JR trains. This itinerary assumes a regular weekday in May of 2013, leaving at 6:30 in the morning – just as the morning rush begins to ramp up.

Train 1: Tokyo-Numazu
Leave Tokyo at 6:34 (Platform 8)
Leave Shinagawa at 6:43
Leave Yokohama at 7:00
Arrive Odawara at 7:57
Arrive Atami at 8:20
Arrive Numazu at 8:39

From other parts of Tokyo, you can take the JR Yamanote Line to Shinagawa and change to the above train. These Yamanote Line departures will give you about 10 minutes to transfer at Shinagawa:
Ikebukuro: 6:05
Shinjuku: 6:13
Shibuya: 6:20
Ueno: 6:12 (Keihin-Tohoku Line)

Train 2: Numazu-Shizuoka
Leave Numazu at 8:42
Arrive Fuji at 9:01
Arrive Shizuoka at 9:36

Stay in Shizuoka one hour for a bathroom and meal break.

Train 3: Shizuoka-Hamamatsu
Leave Shizuoka at 10:42
Arrive Hamamatsu at 11:51

Train 4: Hamamatsu-Toyohashi
Leave Hamamatsu at 12:02
Arrive Toyohashi at 12:36

Train 5: Toyohashi-Nagoya (Special Rapid Train)
Leave Toyohashi at 12:51
Arrive Nagoya at 13:41

Stay in Nagoya one hour for a bathroom and meal break.

Train 6: Nagoya-Ogaki (Special Rapid Train)
Leave Nagoya at 14:45
Arrive Ogaki at 15:16

Train 7: Ogaki-Maibara
Leave Ogaki at 15:37
Arrive Maibara at 16:12

Train 8: Maibara-Kyoto (Special Rapid Train)
Leave Maibara at 16:18
Arrive Kyoto at 17:12
(Train continues to Osaka at 17:43, Sannomiya/Kobe at 18:06, Himeji at 18:47)

The total travel time from Tokyo, including breaks, is approximately 10 1/2 hours. Of course, you can tailor the breaks/rests to suit your needs.

Japanese 7-Eleven Stores block ATM withdrawals by Mastercard

Travelers to Japan should be aware that for the second time – to my knowledge – 7-Eleven stores in Japan are not allowing Mastercard cards, including Maestro and Cirrus cards, to be used at their ATM machines.

Seven Bank, operated by 7-Eleven, is among the more popular ways of obtaining cash in Japan. Over 12,000 7-Eleven stores have an ATM within, permitting cash withdrawals.

Unfortunately, due to a dispute between Seven Bank and Mastercard, Seven Bank has again blocked the usage of Mastercard, Maestro and Cirrus at their ATMs. The first suspension of service lasted nine months, from December 2009 to August 2010. In both instances, Seven Bank claims in their own words that the action is “in response to a revision in conditions by MasterCard that will impede the Company’s provision of ATM services.”

You can still withdraw cash using Visa cards (including those with the Plus logo), American Express, JCB, Union Pay, Discover Card and Diner’s Club.

If you have a Mastercard, Maestro or Cirrus card on the other hand … like me … you’ll want to turn to Japan Post, the postal provider of Japan that pretty much has an ATM located in every one of their branches across the country.  Note however that not all ATMs are available 24 hours a day… only central post office locations in the major cities offer 24 hour ATM service. Most others are available only during the post office’s business hours: those in major cities will have longer business hours, while those in more rural locations will have shorter hours and may be closed on weekends and holidays.

Citibank is another alternative, as they have bank locations in the major cities and at the main international airports.

One thing to note is that you can do an online search for Seven Bank ATMs in English through their website, while for Japan Post the search is only available in Japanese.

Here are some links:

Seven Bank
Japan Post
Japan Post ATM Search (Japanese Only!)
Citibank list of ATM locations (PDF File)

I’m going back to Japan!

Welcome to the occasional update of my Japan Tips blog, this one starting with wonderful news!

My girlfriend and I have booked our air tickets to Japan for this September! It is the third trip for me, and the first trip for her. We are both excited about the opportunity, and I hope to perhaps provide regular updates here as best I can during the trip.

We’ve decided – since the airfare would be a difference of only $10 – to do an OPEN JAW itinerary. We will land in Nagoya, Japan (one of Japan’s newest International airports) and then fly out of Tokyo Narita about two weeks later. We’ll spend the first few days around Kansai, mostly Kyoto, and then move on to Tokyo from there. We’ve got a lot to plan out… how to go about, what to do, and most importantly, who to see (we have a lot of friends living in Japan!)

There’s still 4+ months to decide, of course…

So there is good news, and unfortunately some sad news, which I will point out in another post shortly… and here it is.

Japan Rail Pass change coming in April

Happy March, everyone. I wanted to quickly pass along some news regarding the Japan Rail Pass. I first discovered this change a few days ago: One of the benefits of using the Japan Rail Pass has been, for some reason or another, the utilization of JR highway buses. That will now be coming to an end, however: Effective with Rail Passes issued on or after April 1 (which is traditionally the start of the new fiscal and school year in Japan), the Japan Rail Pass can no longer be used on any highway bus service. It will still be valid for LOCAL buses that are operated by JR, but not for the highway buses.

The condition as currently stated on the Rail Pass’ official web page refers to “Express buses” being discontinued from pass validity. That term is somewhat confusing, however two other sources that I wrote to confirmed to me that this likely means highway buses.

The discontinuation of this provision likely means two things: Not enough Rail Pass users are using highway buses (why would you when you can take the train), AND/OR more people are perhaps using the Japan Bus Pass offered by Willer Express for their highway bus travel.

Of course, I am still rooting for the day that we can use Nozomi and Mizuho shinkansen trains with the Japan Rail Pass, but much to my chagrin (and my expectation) this restriction will remain in effect. 😦

Odakyu’s new English travel website highly recommended

If you are interested in making a day trip out of Tokyo to some great destinations, a great method of doing so is by the private Odakyu railway. With trains mostly running out of Shinjuku station, Odakyu trains serve the hot springs of Hakone and the seaside of Enoshima. Some trains also connect to the city of Gotemba, which is home to a large outlet shopping mall, and trains also go out to  a residential and retailing district called “Tama New Town”.

One of the keys to inviting foreigners to utilize the services of Japanese companies – whether it be a hotel, a restaurant, or travel – is to have a good foreign language website. I believe that the Odakyu Railway has done just that with the upgrade of their new multi-language Odakyu web site, which occurred this month. The website for the English version is at www.odakyu.jp/english ; they also have the new website in Korean and two Chinese languages.

Screenshot of the new Odakyu English web site.
Screenshot of the new Odakyu English web site.

The new slogan for the Odakyu Railway is “Odakyu Has A Japan”, and the new website shows this perfectly. Here are some of the great features of the website:

HOW TO PURCHASE A TICKET: The website shows how you can purchase any Odakyu ticket from one of their vending machines. Most Odakyu ticket vending machines have an English option. You can purchase a standard ticket, a ticket for their premium “Romancecar” trains, and even purchase an Odakyu Free Pass for unlimited travel in whatever region you are visiting. My favorite part is the one that shows you how to snare the lucrative window seats – either seats facing towards the front or towards the rear – on the trains where the driver sits in the high cab. These are great seats for a panoramic view of all of the action – and it’s available at no extra charge.

HOW TO NAVIGATE SHINJUKU STATION: Shinjuku Station is recognized by Guinness as the busiest train station in the world, with over 3 million people using it every day. It is also a place where one can easily get lost if not paying attention. Odakyu’s website shows you how to get around Shinjuku Station and how to access the Odakyu Railway from other train lines serving the station.

HOW TO TAKE TRAINS: The new Odakyu website gives a detailed description of each of its train services, from Romance Car to regular commuter trains, Express to Local and everything in between. It also shows you how to travel on these trains and the manners you should follow as well.

ODAKYU RAIL PASSES: This gives you a breakdown of all of the Odakyu Rail Passes that can be purchased, and the areas covered.

SIGHTSEEING GUIDE AND ITINERARIES: A comprehensive review of the major destinations served by the Odakyu Trains, and suggested day trip courses are provided. Interestingly enough, one of the reviews provided is of Shinjuku. A hint: Each of the major destinations served by Odakyu is accompanied by a brief video presentation (linked to YouTube). Maximize your screen and get ready to enjoy sneak peeks at what is in store for you.

With all of the positive enthusiasm of my post, you might think that Odakyu was behind this posting. Trust me, Odakyu has nothing to do with it. I am just amazed at how much information is available on the new website in a way that is very easy to understand. I highly recommend using the website if you are considering future trips to Tokyo, especially since using Odakyu trains tend to be on the cheap side, compared to the Japan Railways which will be more expensive.

One more note on this subject: Once you are in Japan, feel free to visit the Odakyu Sightseeing Service Centers located at the major stations, including Shinjuku. They have staff in English that can answer your questions about travel on Odakyu, sell you rail passes and sell you tickets on the Romancecar trains.

Now that I have sung the praises of Odakyu, here is a breakdown of some of their most popular rail passes.

HAKONE FREE PASS: Most tourists to Japan will probably take advantage of this pass. The Hakone Free Pass is a benefit when visiting the Hakone region, famous for its hot springs and history, not to mention its close proximity to Mount Fuji. The pass is available in 2-day consecutive and 3-day consecutive versions and includes unlimited transportation of Odakyu trains between Odawara and Hakone-Yumoto, most trains, trams, cable cars and buses that serve the area,  and the primary sightseeing ship that crosses Lake Ashi. I might have already written more about the Hakone Round Trip Course somewhere in my blog… AHA! Here it is. If you’d like more information about Hakone, please read that post. The pass also includes discounts at many shops located in the Hakone region – whichever shows the Hakone Free Pass logo on the store front will offer some sort of discount to you.

Jose stands next to the Hakone Tozan train in Gora. Photo by Jose Ramos, June 2004
Jose stands next to the Hakone Tozan train in Gora. Photo by Jose Ramos, June 2004

The Hakone Free Pass for adults starting from Odawara costs 3,900 yen for 2 consecutive days, and 4,400 yen for 3 consecutive days. The pass from Shinjuku station costs 5,000 yen for 2 days and 5,500 yen for 3 days. The difference is that the pass that starts from Shinjuku includes ONE round-trip on the Odakyu Railway’s standard commuter services between Shinjuku and Odawara.

A trip from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto on standard Odakyu trains takes about 2 hours or so, and you will need to change trains at Odawara one way or the other. On the other hand, a trip on the premium Romancecar service is 20-30 minutes faster, not to mention it’s easier and more relaxing with reserved seating, wagon cart or vending machine service on most trains, and if you’re lucky – as I mentioned earlier – a wide view of all of the action from the front of the train.  A trip on the Romancecar is NOT INCLUDED in this pass or ANY Odakyu Rail Pass – you will need to pay the surcharge in addition to the pass. For a trip between Shinjuku and Hakone-Yumoto, the surcharge is 870 yen per person each way.

There is also an option to start your trip from Odawara. When to consider this? Simply put, if you have a Japan Rail Pass… with your Japan Rail Pass you can access Odawara – which is also a Japan Railways station – at no charge before proceeding to Hakone-Yumoto. Here’s a thought – Odawara is also a bullet train stop, so you can use a twice-hourly Kodama service from Tokyo or Shinagawa and reach Odawara in no time… only 27 minutes from Shinagawa, normally costing around 3,400 yen or so on its own, and at no charge if you use a Japan Rail Pass. What’s more, if you wanted to you could travel from Tokyo to Odawara by bullet train, do your trip in Hakone with the Free Pass, then when the day is done return to Odawara and continue right on using the bullet train… in the evenings you can leave Odawara on a Kodama, change trains along the way and be in Kyoto in just three hours!

The entrance to Enoshima island is prefaced with this stone marker. Photo by Jose Ramos, October 2008
The entrance to Enoshima island is prefaced with this stone marker. Photo by Jose Ramos, October 2008

ENOSHIMA ONE-DAY PASSPORT: For those wanting to explore the island of Enoshima and the seaside, this one day pass is an option. Selling for 1,940 yen per adult from Shinjuku station, it includes ONE round-trip from Shinjuku to Fujisawa, unlimited Odakyu train travel on the short line running from Fujisawa to Katase-Enoshima (the station on Enoshima closest to the seashore), and admission to Enoshima island’s main attractions, including the Enoshima ESCAR (a series of three escalators that help you get up the island without having to tire your legs walking up regular steps), the Enoshima lighthouse and observatory, and the Samuel Cocking Garden (named for a British merchant who used the location in the late 1800’s for his tropical plant collection). It also includes discounted admission to Enoshima Aquarium.

The Romancecar charge is 600 yen per adult each way. Note that on Weekdays the Romancecar trips are very limited – for example, there is only ONE morning Romancecar trip to Enoshima, departing towards the end of rush hour. On weekends however, there’s a train every one or two hours. The Romancecar gets you from Shinjuku to Enoshima in 60-70 minutes, while commuter trains take 80-90 minutes.

A short walk inland from the shore brings you to the Enoshima Tramway, or ENODEN. This tramway connects to another important destination of religious significance, Kamakura, home to one of Japan’s largest Buddhist statues and the country’s largest Shinto shrine. The Enoshima One-Day Passport does not include any of these destinations; for this you will need:

ENOSHIMA-KAMAKURA FREE PASS: This one day pass costs 1,430 yen from Shinjuku Station and includes ONE Odakyu round-trip from Shinjuku to Fujisawa (Romancecar extra), unlimited Odakyu train travel on the short line running from Fujisawa to Katase-Enoshima, and the entirety of the ENODEN from Fujisawa to Enoshima and Kamakura. Unlike the Enoshima One Day Passport, this free pass does not include admission to the attractions on Enoshima described above, but you can get a discount on those same attractions.

Using this Free Pass you can get off from the ENODEN at Hase and visit the great Buddha of Kamakura (10 minute walk), where many Buddhist worshipers come to pray. At the end of the line in Kamakura, walk 10 minutes to Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine, the largest Shinto shrine in Japan.

Odakyu offers other travel passes, some exclusively to foreigners, including: the Fuji Hakone Pass which combines a trip to Hakone with a visit to Lake Kawaguchi and the foot of Mount Fuji, the Ito-Kanko pass and Minami-Izu pass for visiting the Izu peninsula, home to one of Japan’s famous hot spring areas, and a pass that includes travel and admission to some of Hakone’s favorite hot spring spas. More details about these passes can be found on the Odakyu website.

Tokyo Yesterday and Today – a NEW One-day sightseeing tour

Happy New Year everyone!

Today I am revisiting one of my classic Tokyo day tour itineraries – Classic Tokyo, Modern Tokyo – and giving it a new look for 2013. My first itinerary, Classic Tokyo, Modern Tokyo, is based on the events of my first trip in 2004 and it is still available here on this blog for those who would like to use it.

The new itinerary – Tokyo Yesterday and Today – keeps some of the elements of the original itinerary. In the tour you will visit:

Rikugien Garden
Sensoji Temple
Tokyo Sky Tree
Odaiba

Overview of Rikugien Garden. Photo by Jose Ramos, October 2008.
Overview of Rikugien Garden. Photo by Jose Ramos, October 2008.

RIKUGIEN GARDEN: This was one of my first destinations in my 2008 trip. Rikugien is open every day except during the New Year’s holidays (December 29-January 1) for a fee of 300 yen. It opens at 9 AM, and to make full use of the day I suggest arriving here between 9 and 10. Of course, if you fear the rush hour crowds then you can aim for the later arrival.

You will be impressed by its appearance and landscape, as I was during my visit. An example of old Edo-style Japanese gardens, this location – which has been designated by the Japanese government as “A special place of scenic beauty” – is an excellent way to start your day.

Kaminari-mon gate at Sensoji temple. Photo by Wikipedia user 663highland, released under CC-BY-SA.
Kaminari-mon gate at Sensoji temple. Photo by Wikipedia user 663highland, released under CC-BY-SA.

SENSOJI TEMPLE: Located in Asakusa, Sensoji temple is the oldest buddhist temple in Japan. The recommended method of approaching the temple is via Nakamise-dori, the large shopping arcade lined with various specialty and food shops. The entrance to Nakamise-dori is the large Kaminari-mon gate, marked with a gigantic red lantern. It should be noted that most of the grounds were destroyed in World War II and rebuilt.

If you do not like large crowds, Sensoji should be avoided during Sanja Matsuri, the annual festival held on one of the weekends in May. But if you do like large festivals, then by all means join the 2 million people that visit Sensoji during this time.

TOKYO SKYTREE: Undoubtedly the newest shining star of Tokyo and of all Japan, the Tokyo Skytree is the world’s tallest communications tower and the second tallest structure in the world, stretching at a height of 2,080 feet.

The new Skytree structure just goes to show how much time has passed since my last visit to Japan. It had barely begun construction in October 2008 – by May 2012 it had opened to the public.

There are two levels of observation decks – it costs 2,000 yen to access the main deck and an additional 1,000 yen to reach the upper deck. There is also a 500 yen charge if you want to access the tower at a specific time.

The Skytree highlights a brand new retail complex, which makes an excellent place for a bite to eat, either before or after your trip up the tower.

Fuji Television Building and Aqua City in Odaiba. Photo by Wikipedia user Andrew Green, released under CC-BY-2.0
Fuji Television Building and Aqua City in Odaiba. Photo by Wikipedia user Andrew Green, released under CC-BY-2.0

ODAIBA: Spend the remainder of the day in Odaiba, a series of man made islands that went from the defenses of the Tokugawa Shogunate in the mid 1800’s into the leisure and tourist zone that it is today.

The best approach to Odaiba is via the Rainbow Bridge, completed in 1993. The rail connection over the bridge is the Yurikamome (ゆりかもめ) , which makes a dramatic 270-degree right turn on the approach to the bridge from the mainland side.

One of the main attractions here is the Fuji TV Building. But one of the more interesting ones is the Toyota pavilion, which can be reached by getting off the Yurikamome at the first stop, Odaiba Kaihin-Koen (お台場海浜公園), then taking a nice walk on the bridge across the expressway. Eventually you will come upon the complex, a part of Palette Town, which includes Toyota, as well as a Lawson convenience store. Inside the Toyota pavilion you can test-drive new Toyota vehicles if you have an international drivers license, or simply push a button and have automated elevators and conveyors present a vehicle to you. The other end of the Yurikamome is on the other side of the complex; board it here with your Suica or PASMO card and take it a few stops to Daiba (台場) to access the Fuji building.

The Tokyo Teleport station (東京テレポート) of the Tokyo Waterfront Railway, aka Rinkai Line, is located within the vicinity of the Fuji building.

**

Tokyo Sky Tree, the world's tallest communications tower. Photo by Wikipedia user Kakidai, released under CC BY-SA 3.0
Tokyo Sky Tree, the world’s tallest communications tower. Photo by Wikipedia user Kakidai, released under CC BY-SA 3.0

There you have it! Two landscapes of yesterday, and two landscapes of today, combined into a wonderful whirlwind tour that you can enjoy.

Now let’s figure out how to get around:

Rikugien is located near Komagome station, served by the JR Yamanote Line (the green loop that circles Tokyo on the maps) and the Namboku subway line of the Tokyo Metro. From the Yamanote Line’s main stations, here is the approximate travel time and cost:

Tokyo Station – 17 minutes, 160 yen
Ueno Station – 10 minutes, 150 yen
Ikebukuro Station – 6 minutes, 150 yen
Shinjuku Station – 15 minutes, 160 yen
Shinagawa Station – 28 minutes (via Tokyo), 250 yen

From Komagome, Rikugien is a 5 minute walk south from the train station along the main street, Hongo Dori. If exiting from the subway you will want to go out of Exit #2. As you walk south on the main road, there is a narrow street that comes up on the right side once you get to the Sunkus convenience store. The entrance to Rikugien is not far from this corner.

To get from Rikugien to Sensoji, retrace your steps to Komagome station. You will want to board the Yamanote Line towards Ueno station (10 minutes, 150 yen), then transfer to the Ginza Subway Line to the terminal station of Asakusa (5 minutes, 160 yen). Exits 1, 2 or 3 from the subway will point you close to the Kaminari-mon gate.

As you begin walking through the arcade, take note of the first major intersection that you cross on the way to the temple. The path to the right is the most direct route to the train that will bring you to Tokyo Skytree.

Once you are at the Tobu Railway’s Asakusa station, take a local train for the quick ride to Tokyo Skytree station (140 yen).

At the opposite end of the Tokyo Skytree complex from where you entered, you will find the Toei Asakusa subway line’s station at Oshiage-Skytree. Take a subway train to Shimbashi station (16 minutes, 210 yen), then transfer to the Yurikamome for the ride into Odaiba. The first stop on Odaiba, Odaiba-Kaihinkoen, is reached from Shimbashi in 13 minutes (310 yen).

You can return to the Tokyo mainland by retracing your steps on the Yurikamome, or by traveling on the Rinkai Line from Tokyo Teleport station.

If you are traveling to the western part of the Yamanote Loop – to Shinjuku or Ikebukuro – you can get a direct ride on the Rinkai Line, which continues as the JR Saikyo Line. It’s 25 minutes to Shinjuku (480 yen) and about 30 minutes to Ikebukuro (510 yen). Shinagawa station can be reached by using the Rinkai Line to Osaki station (11 minutes, 320 yen) and then traveling one stop on the JR Yamanote Line (130 yen).

If returning to Tokyo or Ueno, I suggest returning to Shimbashi on the Yurikamome, then taking the Yamanote Line to either Tokyo (4 minutes, 13o yen) or Ueno (12 minutes, 150 yen). Note that another train line, the Keihin Tohoku line, runs parallel to the Yamanote Line in this area – you can pick up one of these blue trains to Tokyo or Ueno if it arrives first.

If you have a Japan Rail Pass, I suggest using it for all JR-eligible journeys: the Yamanote Line to Komagome if you’re using that to reach Rikuguen, Komagome to Ueno (traveling from Rikugien to Sensoji), and then if you are returning from Odaiba to Tokyo or Ueno, the JR line from Shimbashi to Tokyo/Ueno. The Rail Pass will not be valid on any of the other lines. Otherwise, point-to-point tickets or a stored fare card (SUICA or PASMO) should be used.

A special note for traveling from Tokyo Teleport (Odaiba) on the Rinkai line: Even though trains on this line continue onto JR tracks, use your Suica or PASMO card for this leg of the trip. Do not use a Rail Pass since it is not accepted for travel over the Rinkai Line. An alternative is to obtain a regular ticket – not using a Suica or PASMO – from Tokyo Teleport to Osaki (320 yen) where the Rinkai Line joins the JR. Once you have continued past Osaki to your destination on the JR line, exit flashing your Japan Rail Pass.

Have fun enjoying Tokyo Yesterday and Today! Don’t forget that all suggestions on this blog are pursuant to the disclaimer.

In-car food sales ending on some Japanese trains

Merry Christmas everyone! I’d like to post a quick note about some Japanese trains that will be ending the in-car sale of food and beverage items.

Last March, JR Central, operators of the Tokaido Shinkansen between Tokyo and Shin-Osaka, discontinued all in-car sales on the slow, all-stopping Kodama trains. The fastest services, Nozomi, and the Hikari (the fastest you can travel on with a Japan Rail Pass) continue to have food and beverages available for purchase from trolleys on the train.

This March, JR Central will discontinue in-car sales on some limited express services, which are generally premium trains to areas not served by the bullet train.

The Hida (Nagoya and Gifu to Takayama), Shinano (Nagoya-Shiojiri, en route to Matsumoto and Nagano), Nanki (Nagoya to Shingu) and Shirasagi (Nagoya-Maibara en route to Toyama) will have all sales discontinued inside trains.

This means, unless your train has a vending machine for food and beverages – I’m not sure, but probably no – buy your food, bento boxes and beverages at the station or at a convenience store BEFORE boarding your train! It’ll save you an empty stomach for the long train ride.

Classic Tokyo, Modern Tokyo – A One Day Sightseeing Tour

I am happy to repost here my “Classic Tokyo, Modern Tokyo” itinerary that I created for Wikitravel several years ago and updated as necessary. I have now migrated from the Wikitravel community to the Wikivoyage community, however Wikivoyage’s rules do not permit itineraries such as mine to be listed. So I will provide it here instead.

The following tour starts and ends at Tokyo Station, contrasting the Tokyo of old with the Tokyo of new. In this tour you will visit the following major destinations:

Tokyo Station
Imperial Palace and the East Gardens in Chiyoda
Sensōji Temple in Asakusa
Odaiba

You will need to get a Suica or PASMO fare card worth at least ¥3000 to be safe. Either type of fare card can be obtained at the nearest train station.

If you have a Japan Rail Pass when entering the country, you can just walk through the barriers when entering and exiting the JR system and flash your pass to the guard. However, you should purchase a ¥3000 fare card in any case.

Exterior of Tokyo Station after completion of renovations. Photo by wikipedia user Nishikaratsu, released under CC BY-SA 3.0

Begin at Tokyo Station

Time yourself to arrive at Tokyo station at around 10:00. If you wish, arrive earlier to experience the end of the morning rush hour. Exit towards the Marunouchi (丸の内) side of the station.

Exit the station to your left and walk until you are at the center of the exterior of the station. Here is where the first stark contrast between old and new can be seen: On one side you can see brand new skyscrapers and on the other side, the red brick facade of Tokyo Station. A large refurbishment project to restore Tokyo Station to its pre-World War II appearance is about to be completed (October 2012 is the finishing date).

From Tokyo Station to the Imperial Palace

NOTE! The Imperial Palace is CLOSED on Mondays and Fridays, unless it is a national holiday, in which case they are closed the following day. They are also closed during the New Year’s season (December 28-January 3) and for some special events. In these cases I suggest a detour to Rikugien Garden instead. See “Alternate Route” below.

You will see a very wide street that proceeds straight out from the center of the station; this is Miyuki Dōri. Proceed walking down the right side of the road until you reach the moat, Wadakura-bori. After walking through what is certain to be a lot of vehicular traffic, it is a slow transition into serenity as you pass the moat and come across the Wadakura Fountain Park.

After spending a few moments at the fountains, continue across the final road, Uchibori Dōri, to the Imperial Palace Plaza. Walk around the edge of the plaza, and you will soon find everything rather calm, as the transfer into old Tokyo has been made. Standing at one of the large gravel intersections, look around and see the contrast once more.

Double Bridge leading into the Imperial Palace. Photo by Wikipedia user Fg2, released to the public domain

Backtrack yourself to where you entered, and turn left, walking north on Uchibori Dōri until you reach the Ōte-mon Gate (大手門), which leads you into the public East Gardens.

Browse through the main path of the gardens, picking up a beverage from a vending machine, purchasing a gift, and if lucky, hearing the screams of the Imperial Guard practicing kendo close by.

Continuing on the main path, you will reach a flower garden, where you should be able to see a large sign pointing you to Hirakawa-mon Gate (平川門), the north exit of the East Gardens.

With your jaunt through the Imperial Palace complete, turn right as you exit Hirakawa-mon and walk a short distance to the entrance to Takebashi station (竹橋) and, using your Suica or PASMO card, take the Tokyo Metro Tōzai Line one stop to Ōtemachi station (大手町).

Follow the underground arcade towards the JR Lines until you reach Tokyo Station. Flash your Japan Rail Pass, or if you don’t have a rail pass, use your Suica or PASMO card. This is a nice opportunity for a quick snack at one of the many food stands before continuing on.

To Sensoji Temple

A quick entry to Modern Tokyo can be found as you walk up to platform 4 for the northbound Yamanote Line. Here, board one of the green-colored trains that arrive every 2 to 3 minutes.

The Yamanote Line is the most prominent rail line in Tokyo, with quick service, and a loop that runs around the entire city. All announcements on the Yamanote line are in both Japanese and English, with computer monitors that show information such as connections at the next stop.

Take the Yamanote Line to Ueno (上野), then walk out and down the stairs, where you’ll whip out your Suica or PASMO card once again and board the Tokyo Metro Ginza Line, taking it to the terminal stop of Asakusa (浅草).

Kaminari-mon gate at Sensoji temple. Photo by Wikipedia user 663highland, released under CC-BY-SA.

Proceed out of Exit 1, 2 or 3, and look for the large Kaminari-mon Gate (雷門), which is your signal to the road that leads to Sensōji Temple. This road, which is Nakamise Dōri, includes a covered arcade of specialty stores and food shops. Pass these initially, and the usual crowds that form around them, and come back to visit a few upon returning.

When you get back to the area around Asakusa station, don’t forget to look across the river for a look at the Golden Turd, also known as the Asahi Beer brewing factory.

From Asakusa you can glimpse at Tokyo’s newest attraction – the Tokyo SkyTree. When you are ready to visit it, it’s just one station away from Asakusa station on the Tobu line.

To Odaiba

Now after a totally classic experience, it’s time to head in a completely opposite direction. Enter Asakusa station and follow the signs for the Toei Asakusa Line, which is another subway line. Take any train to Shimbashi (新橋) and then transfer upstairs to the Yurikamome (ゆりかもめ) light rail line. (You’ll need your Suica or PASMO card for both.)

After skimming past some skyscrapers, you will see the Rainbow Bridge on your left side. Then the train makes a 270-degree right turn and enters the bridge for the crossing into Odaiba, the man-made island that boasts a completely new scene in Tokyo.

One of the main attractions here is the Fuji TV Building. But one of the more interesting ones is the Toyota pavilion, which can be reached by getting off the Yurikamome at the first stop, Odaiba Kaihin-Koen (お台場海浜公園), then taking a nice walk on the bridge across the expressway. Eventually you will come upon the complex, a part of Palette Town, which includes Toyota, as well as a Lawson convenience store. Inside the Toyota pavilion you can test-drive new Toyota vehicles if you have an international drivers license, or simply push a button and have automated elevators and conveyors present a vehicle to you. The other end of the Yurikamome is on the other side of the complex; board it here with your Suica or PASMO card and take it a few stops to Daiba (台場) to access the Fuji building.

The Tokyo Teleport station (東京テレポート) of the Tokyo Waterfront Railway, aka Rinkai Line, is located within the vicinity of the Fuji building.

Fuji Television Building and Aqua City in Odaiba. Photo by Wikipedia user Andrew Green, released under CC-BY-2.0

To Shinjuku

If you’ve progressed at a steady pace, it should be close to dusk by the time you enter the Rinkai Line. The last stop on the tour is a place which shines with nightlife, Shinjuku.

In the past, getting from Tokyo Teleport to Shinjuku was a bit tricky depending on whether or not you had a Japan Rail Pass. Although Rinkai Line trains continue directly to Shinjuku station, you travel over two separate railways (Tokyo Teleport to Osaki on the Tokyo Waterfront Railway, then Osaki to Shinjuku on the JR Saikyo Line).

Now, it’s very easy and straightforward: Use your Suica or PASMO card for this leg of the trip. Do not use the Japan Rail Pass since it is not accepted for travel over the Rinkai Line. An alternative is to obtain a regular ticket – not using a Suica or PASMO – from Tokyo Teleport to Ōsaki (¥320) where the Rinkai Line joins the JR, and then exit in Shinjuku flashing your Japan Rail Pass.

Have a bite to eat in the station, if you want, or see what kind of eateries you can find, cheap or expensive, in Shinjuku itself!

Head to the east exit of Shinjuku station to begin in front of the giant television monitor at Studio ALTA, one of Tokyo’s major meeting places. If you are courageous, follow the train tracks north and attempt to plunge into Tokyo’s red-light district of Kabukichō (歌舞伎町)… you’ll see bright signs for it just to the right of the Shinjuku Prince Hotel.

If you’ve had enough, walk south to Kōshu Kaidō (甲州街道) to enjoy the panoramic views of the rest of Shinjuku at ground level overlooking the train tracks, including the large Takashimaya Times Square building.

Takashimaya Times Square Building in Shinjuku. Photo by Wikipedia user Gorgo, released to the Public Domain

Returning to Tokyo Station

Shinjuku is the country’s busiest train hub, but don’t stray in Shinjuku too late, as, like the rest of the country, train services stop at midnight!

To return to Tokyo Station, you can take the JR Chuo Line across, or do the same using the Marunouchi subway line.

If you are returning elsewhere, you can take the JR Yamanote Line, or several subway lines, including the Marunouchi, Toei Shinjuku or Toei Oedo line.

Straying from the route

If you want to stray a bit from the route, take a moment to inhale the world’s largest pedestrian crossing, which can be found at Shibuya station.

You may also choose to go from Asakusa to the new Tokyo SkyTree, and then proceed to Odaiba in the evening.

ALTERNATE ROUTE – RIKUGIEN GARDEN

On some days the East Gardens of the Imperial Palace are CLOSED to visitors. In this case I recommend beginning your Classic Tokyo, Modern Tokyo tour at Rikugien Garden, widely considered to be among Tokyo’s top gardens. Rikugien Garden opens at 9 AM every day, and they are closed from December 29 to January 1. The admission is 300 yen.

Overview of Rikugien Garden. Photo by Jose Ramos, October 2008.

Rikugien is a short walk south of the Komagome Station on the Yamanote Line. Once there you will be impressed by its appearance and landscape, as I was during my second visit to Japan.

I suggest arriving at Rikugien during the 9:00-10:00 hour if possible. If it is not 12:00 by the time you finish, you can take the Yamanote Line back to Tokyo Station to view its classic exterior before proceeding to Sensoji Temple as described above. Otherwise, you can go directly from Rikugien to Sensoji by taking the Yamanote Line to Ueno, then proceeding via the Ginza Subway Line to Asakusa station.

Japan Itinerary: The Three Gardens

This itinerary was updated for current pricing and travel options in February 2017.

The original list of Japan’s Three Views is mirrored by a countless number of lists with the top three of everything in Japan. In this post I will introduce what is agreed to be Japan’s best three gardens, or Sanmeien, and suggest itineraries to visit these three gardens in a limited amount of time. All information is provided according to the DISCLAIMER and all information contained in this post is accurate as of the date it is posted.

I really love Japanese gardens. They help to define tranquility and serenity in their settings, no matter what their purpose. I’ve been to a few in Japan, notably Rikugien in Tokyo, and in a good number of the buddhist temples that I’ve visited around the Kyoto area. I must confess though that I’ve never been to any of these three defined as the best. I will definitely mark at least one of these on my list of places to visit in Japan during my future travels. But even if you don’t visit these three, there are plenty of gardens around the country to whet your appetite.

Kenroku-en Kasumi-ga-ike. Photo by Wikipedia user Fg2, released under Public Domain

KENROKU-EN

Kenroku-en is a Japanese garden in the city of Kanazawa, in Japan’s northern Chubu region. It was originally a private garden for one of the country’s most powerful samurai clans. A restoration project begun in the late 1700’s after it was destroyed by fire. It was opened to the public in 1874, a few years into the Meiji Restoration which brought the era of samurai and feudal lords to an end.

It is open from 7 AM to 6 PM during the summer months, and 8 AM to 5 PM during the winter months. Admission is 310 yen; for 500 yen you can buy a “Kenroku-en Plus One” ticket, which also includes admission to one additional attraction in the Kanazawa area.

In March of 2015, Kanazawa was linked to the country’s high speed rail network, making for a quick trip from Tokyo… but since Kenroku-en is a considerable distance from Kanazawa station the best way to access the garden is by public transportation. Numerous buses operate on a frequent basis between the train station and the garden: trips take approximately 15-20 minutes at a cost of 200 yen. JR Bus operates a few buses per hour, but not as much as the other local buses operated by Hokutetsu Bus. These JR buses are free if you have the Japan Rail Pass, although the cost of the bus is cheap enough that you can just pay for the next trip to the garden and back. Perhaps the easiest way to get around, though, is on the Kanazawa Loop Bus. These buses for tourists run every 15 minutes at a cost of 200 yen per trip – or for 500 yen you can hop on and off the bus as many times as you want in one day, as well as any local Hokutetsu bus in the area served by the loop bus. Passes can be purchased from the Hokutetsu Ekimae Center, at Kanazawa Station’s east exit.

There is also a shuttle bus that goes directly between Kanazawa Station and Kenroku-en every 20 minutes for 200 yen (100 yen on weekends and holidays), though it looks like the One Day Pass for the Loop Bus is not valid for this shuttle bus.

Kenroku-en official web site: http://www.pref.ishikawa.jp/siro-niwa/kenrokuen/e/index.html
Official Kanazawa City Tourism web site: http://www.kanazawa-tourism.com/
English route map of Kanazawa Loop Bus (in PDF): http://www.hokutetsu.co.jp/bus/e_pamphlet.pdf
Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kenrokuen

Koraku-en with Okayama Castle in the back. Photo by Wikipedia user Fjkelfeimvvn, released under CC Attribution 3.0 unported.

KORAKU-EN

There are several popular locations in Japan referred to as Koraku-en. If you ask for Koraku-en in Tokyo, you’ll be taken to Japan’s most famous sports venue for boxing and professional wrestling. But if you search for a famous garden called Koraku-en, you’ll be directed to a location in the city of Okayama, in the Chugoku region.

Like Kenroku-en, Koraku-en was built as a pleasure garden by a feudal lord, and was a private garden until it was completely opened to the public during the Meiji Restoration. And like Kenroku-en, it has suffered through destruction (twice!) and been rebuilt. One of the striking features of the garden is the presence of nearby Okayama Castle, which appears to blend in to the scenery. It is open from 7:30 AM to 6 PM during the summer months, and 8 AM to 5 PM during the winter months. Admission is 400 yen, with combination admission tickets available with nearby attractions including Okayama Castle and the prefectural museum.

The nearest major train station is Okayama, a major stop on the Shinkansen (bullet train). From here, you have a few options: You can walk the entire distance to the garden in approximately 30 minutes, you can take a city bus from the station to the garden (15-20 minutes on Bus #18, 140 yen, departs every 20 minutes), you travel halfway to Koraku-en on the tramway (100 yen to Shiroshita station, 5 minutes) and walk to Koraku-en in about 15 minutes, or you can go the entire way by taxi for around 1000 yen.

Koraku-en English web site: http://www.okayama-korakuen.jp/english/
Koraku-en / Okayama Castle information at official Okayama Prefecture Tourism web site: https://www.okayama-japan.jp/en/spot/91
Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/K%C5%8Draku-en

Kairaku-en. Photo by Flickr user LuxTonnerre and released under CC-by-2.0.

KAIRAKU-EN

The final of Japan’s three great gardens is actually in Ibaraki prefecture, just a stone’s throw away from Tokyo. There are several differences between Kairaku-en and the two other gardens on the list: Kairaku-en was built much later, in the mid 1800’s. The garden has been open to the public since it first opened. It is widely known for its plum tree blossoms in February and March. There is a traditional building within Kairaku-en that requires an admission fee, otherwise the garden is completely FREE to enter. Operating hours are 6 AM to 7 PM during the plum blossom season and summer months, 7 AM to 6 PM during the winter months.

Kairaku-en suffered damage after the earthquake and tsunami of March 11, 2011. Full restoration work was completed in February, 2012.

The nearest train station to Kairaku-en is Mito Station, which is on the JR Joban Line. Joban Line trains are now directly linked to Ueno, Tokyo and Shinagawa stations: Limited Express “Hitachi” and “Tokiwa” trains are the fastest (70-90 minutes and 3,820 yen from Tokyo Station), while local trains reach Mito in 2 hours 15 minutes from Tokyo Station (2,270 yen). The trains actually pass Kairaku-en before arriving at Mito. You can reach Kairaku-en by walking for 30 minutes, by taking a bus (15 minutes), or by taxi in 10 minutes for around 1,000 yen. During the plum festival, a temporary station right next to Kairaku-en is opened for disembarkment.

There is also a highway bus that runs from Tokyo to Mito Station in approximately two hours. SOME of these buses stop at a stop called Daikumachi, which is almost to Mito station. The fare is 2,080 yen to either destination. From this stop you can walk SOUTH directly to Kairaku-en in 15-20 minutes along route 342.

Kairaku-en Web Site: http://www.koen.pref.ibaraki.jp/foreign_language/en/kairakuen/index.html
JR Bus Kanto website: http://www.jrbuskanto.co.jp.e.wn.hp.transer.com/
Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kairaku-en

And now for the short travel itineraries that cover just these three jewels of Japanese gardens. As in my previous post, there are four different routes suggested. Two each from Tokyo and Osaka, and two each using the train and the bus. For buses, note that bus companies sometimes offer discounts for advance purchases.

FROM TOKYO – BY RAIL/JAPAN RAIL PASS – 4-day Itinerary

Day 1: In the morning, depart from Tokyo station on a “Hitachi” or “Tokiwa” Limited Express service to Mito station (70-90 minutes, 3,820 yen, no charge w/Rail Pass) or by local train (2 1/4 hours, 2,080 yen). Walk from Mito Station for about 30 minutes to Kairaku-en, or take a taxi (around 1,000 yen one-way).
VISIT KAIRAKU-EN
Return to Ueno Station in the afternoon via “Hitachi”/”Tokiwa” or local train.
In the evening hours, depart Tokyo for Kanazawa on the Hokuriku Shinkansen “Kagayaki” or “Hakutaka” bullet train service. “Kagayaki” trains are the fastest, taking 2 1/2 hours, while the “Hakutaka” makes more stops and adds around 45 minutes to the trip. The fare of 14,120 yen is the same – there is no charge for Japan Rail Pass holders.

Spend TWO EVENINGS at a hotel in Kanazawa.

Day 2: Spend the entire day in Kanazawa, utilizing the Kanazawa Loop Bus to get around the city’s major sites, including Kenroku-en.
VISIT KENROKU-EN

Day 3: In the morning, depart for Okayama using the “Thunderbird” limited express between Kanazawa and Shin-Osaka, followed by the Shinkansen between Shin-Osaka and Okayama. The “Thunderbird” begins departures at 5:35 AM; the faster services leave Kanazawa just after the top of the hour at 8 AM and 9 AM. Be sure to change at SHIN-OSAKA, which is the shinkansen transfer station. By Nozomi it takes as little as 3 1/2 hours at a cost of 13,070 yen. Rail Pass holders can reach Okayama in around 4 hours, but using one of the morning “Thunderbird” trains to connect to a “Sakura” bullet train service will get you to Okayama a little sooner.
In the afternoon visit Koraku-en and nearby Okayama Castle.
VISIT KORAKU-EN

Spend the evening in Okayama.

Day 4: Return from Okayama to Tokyo on the bullet train at your leisure to complete the trip. By direct “Nozomi” the trip takes approximately 3 1/2 hours (17,130 yen). A direct “Hikari” service leaves every hour for Tokyo (4 hours) and is the best option for Japan Rail Pass holders – otherwise a change of trains at Shin-Osaka is necessary.
[If you wish, you can travel to Okayama at your leisure on Day 3, then spend the morning of Day 4 at Koraku-en before returning to Tokyo in the evening]

For this course, a 7 Day Japan Rail Pass is recommended (29,110 yen).

FROM TOKYO – BY BUS and LOCAL TRAINS – 5-day itinerary

Day 1: Depart from Tokyo for Mito using the bus from Tokyo Station (2 hours, 2,080 yen) or using the local train from Ueno, Tokyo or Shinagawa (2 1/4 hours, 2,080 yen from Tokyo Station). Walk from Mito Station for about 30 minutes to Kairaku-en or take a taxi (around 1,000 yen one-way). If you are on a bus that drops off at Daikumachi bus stop, you can walk south to Kairaku-en in 15-20 minutes.
VISIT KAIRAKU-EN
Return to Tokyo from Mito Station by bus or local train.

In the evening, leave Tokyo for Kanazawa by overnight bus. Options include the JR Bus and Willer Express. There are several nightly departures and buses reach Kanazawa in 7 1/2-9 hours. Fares typically start at around 5,700 yen for off-peak travel and increase during high demand.

Day 2: Arrive in Kanazawa. Spend the entire day in Kanazawa, utilizing the Kanazawa Loop Bus to get around the city’s major sites, including Kenroku-en.
VISIT KENROKU-EN

Spend the night in Kanazawa.

Day 3: Spend the day traveling from Kanazawa to Okayama, with a break in Osaka.

In the morning, depart Kanazawa for Osaka. Options include JR Bus (Fares start at around 4,700 yen for off-peak travel).
Spend the afternoon in Osaka. In the evening, depart for Okayama.
Options include JR Bus (around 1 bus per hour, with fares starting at around 2,400 yen)

If you are unable to secure a bus trip, the other option is to travel via the JR commuter train line all the way out to Okayama. You will want to depart on a “Shin-Kaisoku” or special rapid service – one change of trains will be required, usually in Himeji. The train fare from Osaka to Okayama is 3,020 yen and the ride takes approximately 2 1/2 hours if the connections are good.

The train trip is slightly faster than the bus… but unlike the commuter train the bus has reserved seating and, like most others, makes a rest stop at a service area along the highway.

Spend the night in Okayama upon arrival.

Day 4: Spend the day visiting Koraku-en and the nearby Okayama Castle.
VISIT KORAKU-EN

In the evening, depart for Tokyo via overnight bus. Options include JR Bus and Willer Express (Fares starting from around 5,400 yen).

Day 5: Arrive in Tokyo to complete your trip.

For this itinerary I suggest the following:
*Check to see if Willer Express’ 3-day Japan Bus Pass (starting at 10,000 yen) would be cheaper than individual tickets from Tokyo to Kanazawa [Day 1], and from Okayama to Tokyo [Day 4]. Otherwise purchase regular one-way bus tickets.
*A regular round-trip bus ticket OR train ticket from Tokyo to Mito [Day 1]
*A regular one-way bus ticket from Kanazawa to Osaka [Day 3] .
*A regular one-way bus ticket OR train ticket from Osaka to Okayama [Day 3].

FROM OSAKA – BY RAIL/JAPAN RAIL PASS – 4-day itinerary

Day 1: Depart Osaka in the morning for Okayama by bullet train. “Nozomi” and “Mizuho” trains take 45 minutes costing 6,230 yen. Rail Pass holders should use the “Sakura” or “Hikari” with frequent departures. “Sakura” trains are generally faster, reaching Okayama in 50 minutes or so.
Spend the day visiting Koraku-en and the nearby Okayama Castle.
VISIT KORAKU-EN

In the evening depart for Tokyo by bullet train.  By direct “Nozomi” the trip takes approximately 3 1/2 hours (17,130 yen). A direct “Hikari” service leaves every hour for Tokyo (4 hours) and is the best option for Japan Rail Pass holders – otherwise a change of trains at Shin-Osaka is necessary. Be sure not to get back to Tokyo too late! Spend the night in Tokyo.

Day 2: In the morning, depart from Tokyo station on a “Hitachi” or “Tokiwa” Limited Express service to Mito station (70-90 minutes, 3,820 yen, no charge w/Rail Pass) or by local train (2 1/4 hours, 2,080 yen). Walk from Mito Station for about 30 minutes to Kairaku-en or take a taxi (around 1,000 yen one-way).
VISIT KAIRAKU-EN
Return to Ueno Station in the afternoon via “Hitachi”/”Tokiwa” or local train.
In the evening hours, depart Tokyo for Kanazawa on the Hokuriku Shinkansen “Kagayaki” or “Hakutaka” bullet train service. “Kagayaki” trains are the fastest, taking 2 1/2 hours, while the “Hakutaka” makes more stops and adds around 45 minutes to the trip. The fare of 14,120 yen is the same – there is no charge for Japan Rail Pass holders.

Spend TWO EVENINGS at a hotel in Kanazawa.

Day 3: Spend the entire day in Kanazawa, utilizing the Kanazawa Loop Bus to get around the city’s major sites, including Kenroku-en.

Day 4: Return to Osaka at your leisure via the “Thunderbird” limited express to complete your trip. Trains take approx. 2 hours 40 minutes and cost 7,650 yen to Osaka station.

For this course, a 7 Day Japan Rail Pass is recommended (29,110 yen).

FROM OSAKA – BY BUS and LOCAL TRAINS – 5-day itinerary

Day 1: Depart for Okayama by bus or train. Bus options include JR Bus (around 1 bus per hour, with fares starting at around 2,400 yen).

If you are unable to secure a bus trip, the other option is to travel via the JR commuter train line all the way out to Okayama. You will want to depart on a “Shin-Kaisoku” or special rapid service – one change of trains will be required, usually in Himeji. The train fare from Osaka to Okayama is 3,020 yen and the ride takes approximately 2 1/2 hours if the connections are good.

The train trip is slightly faster than the bus… but unlike the commuter train the bus has reserved seating and, like most others, makes a rest stop at a service area along the highway..

Spend the afternoon in Osaka, visiting Koraku-en and the nearby Okayama Castle.
VISIT KORAKU-EN
In the evening, depart for Tokyo via overnight bus. Options include JR Bus and Willer Express (Fares starting from around 5,400 yen).

Day 2: Arrive in Tokyo, and depart from Tokyo for Mito using the bus from Tokyo Station (2 hours, 2,080 yen) or using the local train from Ueno, Tokyo or Shinagawa (2 1/4 hours, 2,080 yen from Tokyo Station). Walk from Mito Station for about 30 minutes to Kairaku-en or take a taxi (around 1,000 yen one-way). If you are on a bus that drops off at Daikumachi bus stop, you can walk south to Kairaku-en in 15-20 minutes.
VISIT KAIRAKU-EN
Return to Tokyo from Mito Station by bus or local train and spend the night in Tokyo.

Day 3: Spend your day in Tokyo, then leave in the evening for Kanazawa by overnight bus. Options include the JR Bus and Willer Express. There are several nightly departures and buses reach Kanazawa in 7 1/2-9 hours. Fares typically start at around 5,700 yen for off-peak travel and increase during high demand.

Day 4: Arrive in Kanazawa. Spend the entire day in Kanazawa, utilizing the Kanazawa Loop Bus to get around the city’s major sites, including Kenroku-en.
VISIT KENROKU-EN
Spend the night in Kanazawa.

Day 5: Depart Kanazawa for Osaka to complete your trip. Options include JR Bus (Fares start at around 4,700 yen for off-peak travel).

For this itinerary I suggest the following:
*Check to see if Willer Express’ 3-day Japan Bus Pass (starting at 10,000 yen) would be cheaper than individual tickets from Okayama to Tokyo [Day 1] and from Tokyo to Kanazawa [Day 3]. Otherwise purchase regular one-way bus tickets.
*A regular one-way bus ticket OR train ticket from Osaka to Okayama [Day 1]
*A regular round-trip bus ticket from Tokyo to Mito [Day 2]
*A regular one-way bus ticket from Kanazawa to Osaka [Day 5].

Japan Itinerary: The Three Views

This blog post was updated in February 2017 to reflect new travel information and fares.

In what will hopefully be the first of a few blog posts, I will present suggested itineraries that will allow you to experience the best that Japan has to offer. These are, as per usual, offered pursuant to the blog DISCLAIMER and transit timings are valid and current as of the date of this post.

This itinerary is for lovers of landscapes and views. Indeed, this itinerary covers the three top views that Japan has to offer. The original list of the “Three Views” can be attributed to the Hayashi family of scholars that penned the list in the 1600’s.

One of Matsushima’s many islands. Photo by Jose Ramos, October 2008

MATSUSHIMA: This city is known for its hundreds of small islands in the bay dotted with pine trees, and a destination that I can personally vouch for. The city is near where the 2011 earthquake and tsunami struck, however Matsushima did not suffer significant damage and it is currently business as usual.

Matsushima can be accessed by the JR Senseki line operating out of Sendai station, which is a stop for the bullet train. The most convenient stop is Matsushima-Kaigan, from which a ferry can take you on a loop around the bay. Tours usually take 40-50 minutes, while a shortened 30 minute tour is sometimes available. Near the dock is a revered Zen buddhist temple, Zuiganji.

An alternate route (which I used) is to exit the train at Hon-Shiogama and walk a few minutes to the pier there. You can then take a one-way cruise to Matsushima which covers a different part of the bay; this is called the “Basho Cruise”.

Highway buses to the area are sparse, so I suggest taking a bus to Sendai and then taking the JR Senseki Line from there.

Ferry information: http://marubun-kisen.com/english/index.html
Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Matsushima

The sand bar at Amanohashidate. Photo by kentin, released under CC-by-SA 3.0 unported

AMANOHASHIDATE: Located in northern Kyoto prefecture, Amanohashidate is a long sand bar topped with pine trees. There are several viewing points from which to view the “bridge in heaven,” as it is translated. The common ritual for visitors is to stand with your back to the sand bar, then bend forward and view it from between your legs, to make it appear as it is indeed “floating”.

There are direct limited express trains to Amanohashidate from Kyoto station on the JR, with connections also available from Osaka. Tankai Bus and Hankyu Bus operates highway bus services from Kyoto Station (2h 20m), Shin-Osaka Station (3h) and the Hankyu Umeda Bus Terminal (3h 15m).

Amanohashidate Tourism Website with descriptions of major destinations: http://www.amanohashidate.jp/lang/en/
Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amanohashidate

Itsukushima Shrine Torii Gate. Photo by Rdsmith4, released under CC-by-SA 2.5 generic

MIYAJIMA: Also known as the island with the floating red torii gate in front of it, Miyajima (also known by its official name ITSUKUSHIMA) is located in the Chugoku region just off the coast of Hiroshima. It is known for Itsukushima shrine, a world heritage site with one of Japan’s most famous icons, the red torii gate in the bay. It appears to “float” in the water during times of high tide. Several popular ryokans are also available to make your stay more memorable.

Miyajima is best accessed by taking the local JR Sanyo line from the Hiroshima train station to Miyajima-guchi station, then taking a ferry across to Miyajima. There are a few ferry companies that do the trip, but one company – JR Ferry – offers free travel if you have a Japan Rail Pass. A cheaper and longer transit route is to take the Hiroshima Tramway, aka Hiroden, Line #2 from Hiroshima Station to Miyajima-guchi. (Approx. 70 minutes and 270 yen, compared to about 30 minutes and 400 yen by JR)

Bus travelers are best taking a bus into Hiroshima and then continuing to Miyajima-guchi by train or tram.

Miyajima Tourist Association: http://www.miyajima.or.jp/english/
Miyajima Hotels Association: http://www.miyajima-yado.com/english.html
Wikipedia (Itsukushima/Miyajima): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Itsukushima

Here are some suggested itineraries that will allow you to enjoy these wonderful views.

FROM TOKYO – By Rail/Japan Rail Pass – 4 Day Itinerary

Day 1: Travel from Tokyo to Sendai by Shinkansen, then travel by JR Senseki Line to Hon-Shiogama (Approx 2 1/4 hours, 11,520 yen) or Matsushima-Kaigan (Approx 2 1/2 hours, 11,520 yen)
VISIT MATSUSHIMA
In afternoon, Travel to Sendai by JR Senseki Line, to Tokyo by Shinkansen, then to Kyoto by Shinkansen. (Approx 4 1/2 hours, 22,620 yen using the Nozomi Tokyo-Kyoto; Japan Rail Pass approx 5 1/2 hours using the Hikari Tokyo-Kyoto)
Japan Rail Pass holders should depart Matsushima by 4 PM, others should leave by 5 PM

Day 2: Travel from Kyoto to Amanohashidate by the “Hashidate” limited express. (2 hours, 4,500 yen; Japan Rail Pass holders must pay 1,480 yen supplement)
VISIT AMANOHASHIDATE
In the afternoon, return to Kyoto by “Hashidate” Limited Express.

If you cannot take the “Hashidate” then you can alternatively take two trains, changing at Fukuchiyama station. The fare is the same, including the JR Pass supplement.

Day 3: Travel from Kyoto to Hiroshima on one of the morning shinkansen services (100 minutes, 11,410 using the Nozomi; Japan Rail Pass holders should take one of the direct Hikari services to Hiroshima that run in the morning, taking approximately 2 hours)
From Hiroshima, travel to Miyajima-guchi station and take the ferry across to Miyajima. Japan Rail Pass holders should use the JR Ferry, as it is free with the pass. Note that the Hiroshima Tram (Hiroden) sells a one day unlimited tram and ferry pass for 840 yen, in which case you must use the other ferry service, Matsuden Ferry.
VISIT MIYAJIMA
Spend the rest of your day and night in Hiroshima, or if you’re lucky try spending the night at a Ryokan on Miyajima itself!

Day 4: If you stayed in Miyajima during the last evening, spend the day in Hiroshima, notably at the Hiroshima Peace Park, before returning to Tokyo. Head back using the Nozomi (4 hours, 19,080 yen) or if you have a Japan Rail Pass you’ll have to take a Sakura or Hikari service and change en-route to another Tokyo-bound Hikari service (5-5 1/2 hours). The final Nozomi departure from Hiroshima to Tokyo leaves at around 8 PM, and the last trip valid with the Rail Pass leaves at around 7 PM.

A 7 Day Japan Rail Pass is recommended for this course (29,100 yen).

FROM TOKYO – By Bus – 6 Day Itinerary
When published in 2012, this was originally a 5 day Itinerary. I have since increased it to a 6 day plan.

Day 1: Travel from Tokyo to Sendai by bus, then travel by rail from Sendai on the JR Senseki Line to Hon-Shiogama (30 minutes, 320 yen) or Matsushima Kaigan (35-40 minutes, 400 yen). Be sure to take an early bus.
Bus options include these morning departures from Shinjuku Highway Bus Terminal: JR Bus (Departs 8:30 AM, arrives 2:20 PM, fares start at 3,500 yen) and Willer Bus (Leaving 7:30 AM, arriving 1:25 PM, fare starts at ~3,700 yen)
VISIT MATSUSHIMA
In the evening return to Sendai and take a direct bus from Sendai to Osaka. The only bus that runs between the two cities is the Kintetsu Bus (Leaving Sendai 7:30 PM, arriving at Osaka’s Higashi-Umeda station 7:12 AM the next morning, fare 12,500 yen). The other alternative is to take a bus to Nagoya, which is offered by a few companies including Willer Express (Leave Sendai 9:30 PM, arrive Meitetsu Bus Center 6:50 AM the next morning, fare 9,500 yen).

Day 2: If you are on the Kintetsu Bus: arrive in Osaka in the morning.

If you are on the Willer Bus to Nagoya: 

Travel between Nagoya and Osaka during the day at your leisure. Willer Buses depart from Nagoya Station Taikodori Exit a few times a day towards Umeda (3 1/2 hours, 2,500 yen). These buses offer convenient drop-offs near Osaka along some commuter train routes: Kosoku Nagakyo is a short walk to the Hankyu Railway, and Momoyamadai conveniently links to the Midosuji Subway. Alternatively, JR Bus runs hourly trips from Nagoya to Osaka (3,000 yen but can sometimes be discounted to 1,500 yen).

Plan to spend two nights in Osaka.

Day 3: Depart for Amanohashidate on the Hankyu Bus (Leaving Hankyu Umeda Bus Terminal 9:50 AM, arriving Amanohashidate Station 12:30 PM).
VISIT AMANOHASHIDATE
Return from Amanohashidate to Osaka on the Hankyu Bus (Leaving Amanohashidate Station 4:45 PM, arrive Osaka/Hankyu Umeda Bus Terminal 7:25 PM).
The round-trip bus fare is 5,300 yen.
Spend the rest of your evening in Osaka.

Day 4: Depart from Osaka on a bus to Hiroshima, then travel to Miyajima using one of the methods described earlier. Options include JR Bus (Leaving Osaka Station JR Highway Bus Terminal 7:30 AM, arriving Hiroshima Station 12:32 PM, fares start from 4,600 yen) and Willer Express (Depart Willer Osaka Terminal 8:20 AM, arriving Hiroshima Station 1:55 PM, fares start from ~3,600 yen). NOTE that the JR Buses stop at the Hiroshima Bus Center first, where you can connect directly to the tram for Miyajima-guchi – it’s a shorter trip compared with a start from Hiroshima station.
VISIT MIYAJIMA
Spend the rest of your day and night in Hiroshima, or if you’re lucky try spending the night at a Ryokan on Miyajima itself!

Day 5: Spend your day in Hiroshima before returning to Tokyo via overnight bus. Options include the JR Bus (Depart Hiroshima Bus Center 8:20 PM and Hiroshima Station 8:35 PM, arrive Shinjuku 7:30 AM/Tokyo 8:05 AM, Regular fare 11,900 yen) and the Willer Express bus (Depart Hiroshima Station 7:35 PM, arrive Shinjuku Station 8:30 AM, fares starting at ~7,900 yen).

Day 6: Arrive in Tokyo to complete your trip.

For your trip I recommend a 3-day Willer Express Japan Bus Pass (Starting at 10,000 yen) to cover your trips from Tokyo to Sendai [Day 1], Sendai to Nagoya [Day 1], Osaka to Hiroshima [Day 4] and Hiroshima to Tokyo [Day 5]. Then purchase a regular bus ticket on either Willer or JR from Nagoya to Osaka [Day 2], and the bus tickets from Osaka to Amanohashidate and back [Day 3].

FROM OSAKA – By Rail/Japan Rail Pass – 4 Day Itinerary

Day 1: Travel to Amanohashidate by rail. Take the “Konotori” limited express from Osaka to Fukuchiyama in the morning. At Fukuchiyama station, change to the “Hashidate” limited express for the run to Amanohashidate. (2 1/4 hours, 5,380 yen – Japan Rail Pass holders must pay 1,480 yen supplement)
VISIT AMANOHASHIDATE
Return to Osaka in the evening in a similar fashion.

Day 2: Travel from Kyoto to Hiroshima on one of the morning shinkansen services (100 minutes, 11,410 using the Nozomi; Japan Rail Pass holders should take one of the direct Hikari services to Hiroshima that run in the morning, taking approximately 2 hours)
From Hiroshima, travel to Miyajima-guchi station and take the ferry across to Miyajima. Japan Rail Pass holders should use the JR Ferry, as it is free with the pass. Note that the Hiroshima Tram (Hiroden) sells a one day unlimited tram and ferry pass for 840 yen, in which case you must use the other ferry service, Matsuden Ferry.
VISIT MIYAJIMA
Spend the rest of your day and night in Hiroshima, or if you’re lucky try spending the night at a Ryokan on Miyajima itself!

Day 3: If you stayed in Miyajima during the last evening, spend the day in Hiroshima, notably at the Hiroshima Peace Park. In the afternoon head back to Tokyo using the shinkansen; either the Nozomi (4 hours, 19,080 yen) or if you have a Japan Rail Pass you’ll have to take a Sakura or Hikari service and change en-route to another Tokyo-bound Hikari service (5-5 1/2 hours).

Spend the night in Tokyo.

Day 4: Travel from Tokyo to Sendai by Shinkansen, then travel by JR Senseki Line to Hon-Shiogama (Approx 2 1/4 hours, 11,520 yen) or Matsushima-Kaigan (Approx 2 1/2 hours, 11,520 yen)
VISIT MATSUSHIMA
In the evening, travel to Sendai by JR Senseki Line, to Tokyo by Shinkansen, then to Osaka by Shinkansen to complete your journey. (Approx 5 1/2 hours, 22,950 yen using the Nozomi Tokyo-Osaka; Japan Rail Pass approx 6 1/2 hours using the Hikari Tokyo-Osaka).

A 7 Day Japan Rail Pass is recommended for this course (29,100 yen).

FROM OSAKA – By Bus – 6 Day Itinerary

Day 1: Depart for Amanohashidate on the Hankyu Bus (Leaving Hankyu Umeda Bus Terminal 9:50 AM, arriving Amanohashidate Station 12:30 PM).
VISIT AMANOHASHIDATE
Return from Amanohashidate to Osaka on the Hankyu Bus (Leaving Amanohashidate Station 4:45 PM, arrive Osaka/Hankyu Umeda Bus Terminal 7:25 PM).
The round-trip bus fare is 5,300 yen.

Day 2: Depart from Osaka on a bus to Hiroshima, then travel to Miyajima using one of the methods described earlier. Options include JR Bus (Leaving Osaka Station JR Highway Bus Terminal 7:30 AM, arriving Hiroshima Station 12:32 PM, fares start from 4,600 yen) and Willer Express (Depart Willer Osaka Terminal 8:20 AM, arriving Hiroshima Station 1:55 PM, fares start from ~3,600 yen). NOTE that the JR Buses stop at the Hiroshima Bus Center first, where you can connect directly to the tram for Miyajima-guchi – it’s a shorter trip compared with a start from Hiroshima station.
VISIT MIYAJIMA
Spend the rest of your day and night in Hiroshima, or if you’re lucky try spending the night at a Ryokan on Miyajima itself!

Day 3: Spend your day in Hiroshima before departing for Tokyo via overnight bus. Options include the JR Bus (Depart Hiroshima Bus Center 8:20 PM and Hiroshima Station 8:35 PM, arrive Shinjuku 7:30 AM/Tokyo 8:05 AM, Regular fare 11,900 yen) and the Willer Express bus (Depart Hiroshima Station 7:35 PM, arrive Shinjuku Station 8:30 AM, fares starting at ~7,900 yen).

Day 4: Arrive in Tokyo and spend your entire day in Tokyo.

Day 5: Travel from Tokyo to Sendai by bus, then travel by rail from Sendai on the JR Senseki Line to Hon-Shiogama (30 minutes, 320 yen) or Matsushima Kaigan (35-40 minutes, 400 yen). Be sure to take an early bus.
Bus options include these morning departures from Shinjuku Highway Bus Terminal: JR Bus (Departs 8:30 AM, arrives 2:20 PM, fares start at 3,500 yen) and Willer Bus (Leaving 7:30 AM, arriving 1:25 PM, fare starts at ~3,700 yen)
VISIT MATSUSHIMA
In the evening return to Sendai and take a direct bus from Sendai to Osaka. The only bus that runs between the two cities is the Kintetsu Bus (Leaving Sendai 7:30 PM, arriving at Osaka’s Higashi-Umeda station 7:12 AM the next morning, fare 12,500 yen). The other alternative is to take a bus to Nagoya, which is offered by a few companies including Willer Express (Leave Sendai 9:30 PM, arrive Meitetsu Bus Center 6:50 AM the next morning, fare 9,500 yen).

Day 6:If you are on the Kintetsu Bus: arrive in Osaka in the morning to complete your trip.

If you are on the Willer Bus to Nagoya: 

Travel between Nagoya and Osaka during the day at your leisure to complete your trip. Willer Buses depart from Nagoya Station Taikodori Exit a few times a day towards Umeda (3 1/2 hours, 2,500 yen). These buses offer convenient drop-offs near Osaka along some commuter train routes: Kosoku Nagakyo is a short walk to the Hankyu Railway, and Momoyamadai conveniently links to the Midosuji Subway. Alternatively, JR Bus runs hourly trips from Nagoya to Osaka (3,000 yen but can sometimes be discounted to 1,500 yen).

For your trip I recommend purchasing bus tickets for the trip from Osaka to Amanohashidate and back. Use a 3-day Willer Express Japan Bus Pass (Starting at 10,000 yen) to cover your trips from Osaka to Hiroshima [Day 2], Hiroshima to Tokyo [Day 3], Tokyo to Sendai [Day 5] and Sendai to Nagoya [Day 5]. Then purchase a regular bus ticket on either Willer or JR from Nagoya to Osaka [Day 6].